Raspberry seed oil: composition, use on the skin and the truth about UV protection

In short: Raspberry seed oil is pressed from raspberry seeds. It is a light carrier oil rich in omega-6 and omega-3 fatty acids and vitamin E, suited to dry, sensitive and combination skin. It is not a sunscreen: the figure "SPF 28–50" comes from a laboratory absorbance measurement, not from a test on skin. It does not belong in a diffuser.

In recent years raspberry seed oil has appeared in face serums and in recipes for homemade cosmetics, mostly with the label "natural sun protection factor". That label is the weakest point of the whole reputation. The oil itself is genuinely good: light, absorbs quickly and the skin is not greasy afterwards. So let us start with where the figure for the protection factor came from.

Where "natural SPF 28–50" came from and why it does not hold

The figure comes from a single study: Oomah et al., Characteristics of raspberry (Rubus idaeus L.) seed oil, Food Chemistry 69 (2000), pp. 187–193. In the laboratory the authors used a spectrophotometer to measure how much UV radiation passes through the oil (in vitro) and compared its transmittance with products containing titanium dioxide. From this comparison arose an estimate of SPF 28–50 for UVB and a protection factor of 6.75–7.5 for UVA. Nothing was measured on skin or on people.

The protection factor of a sunscreen is, however, not determined from absorbance. According to the international standard ISO 24444 it is measured in vivo: a precisely measured layer of 2 mg/cm² is applied to the skin of volunteers and the dose of UV radiation the skin tolerates before reddening is compared with and without the product. An oil in a thin and uneven layer, as you normally apply it, behaves completely differently from in the cuvette of a spectrophotometer. The Tisserand Institute also points out that the study is cited inaccurately.

No vegetable oil has a proven protection factor sufficient for time in the sun. So use raspberry seed oil as skin care, not as a sun-protection product. If you want it in the morning, put it under sunscreen, not instead of it.

Be careful with combinations too. Pressed citrus essential oils (bergamot, lemon, lime, grapefruit) contain furocoumarins and in the sun can cause pigment spots. For pressed bergamot, the IFRA recommendation is at most 0.4% in a product that stays on skin exposed to the sun; in 10 ml of raspberry seed oil, that corresponds to roughly one drop. Use such blends only in the evening, or reach for bergamot without furocoumarins (labelled FCF).

What raspberry seed oil is and how it is obtained

Raspberry seed oil is an oil from raspberry seeds, not from the flesh and not from the leaves. The seeds remain after the production of juices, jams and purées; they are dried and pressed, ideally cold. The yield is low, which is why raspberry seed oil is among the more expensive carrier oils and is sold mainly in small bottles.

A cold-pressed oil has a golden-yellow colour and a gentle, slightly nutty scent. It does not smell of raspberries, and anyone expecting a fruity scent is usually disappointed. A distinctly raspberry scent in the bottle means added perfume.

It is important to distinguish it from essential oils. Raspberry seed oil is a carrier (vegetable) oil: it is greasy, does not evaporate and serves for skin care and for diluting essential oils. An essential oil from raspberries cannot be obtained by distillation. If you find raspberry seed oil among essential oils, it is an inaccurate classification, and the substance does not change. How carrier oils work in general is explained in the article Carrier oils from A to Z.

Composition: what you will find in raspberry seed oil

Like other berry seed oils, raspberry seed oil consists predominantly of polyunsaturated fatty acids. That gives it lightness but also lower stability.

The ranges are based on analyses by Oomah et al. (2000) and Ispiryan et al. (2023). Values differ by raspberry variety, vintage and method of pressing; for some varieties the omega-3 share is even higher than 35%. A refined oil is lighter, scentless and contains fewer tocopherols.

What skin raspberry seed oil suits

• Dry and dehydrated skin: it helps keep water in the skin, best when applied to dampened skin or over a hydrating serum.
• Combination and oily skin: thanks to the high share of linoleic acid, oilier skin usually tolerates it better than heavy oils such as coconut. 2 drops are enough.
• Sensitive skin: it is gentle and unscented, but the forearm test still applies.
• Mature skin: it suits as a light evening oil or a serum component, but do not expect miracles with wrinkles.
• Hair: 1–2 drops spread between your palms onto dry ends, not on an oily scalp.

Anyone allergic to raspberries or other rosaceous fruit should start with a test. How to proceed with oils on the face in general is discussed in the article Essential oils for the face and choosing a carrier oil.

How to use raspberry seed oil

On its own as a face oil

1. In the evening, lightly dampen cleansed skin with water or toner.
2. Drip 2–4 drops of raspberry seed oil into your palm and warm them between your fingers.
3. Press the oil into the skin with your palms; do not rub. Start with the cheeks, continue with the forehead and neck.
4. Wait 5 minutes. If the skin remains shiny, use one drop less next time.
5. In the morning, just rinse the skin and use an ordinary cream and sunscreen during the day.

As a base for a blend with essential oils

Raspberry seed oil is a suitable carrier for essential oils. For the face, a dilution of up to 1% is enough, that is 1–2 drops of essential oil per 10 ml of carrier. For the body you can go to 2%. The general rules of dilution are summarised in the guide to using essential oils.

An example of an evening blend: 10 ml of raspberry seed oil, 5 ml of jojoba oil and 2 drops of true lavender. Jojoba stabilises the blend and extends its shelf life, because it hardly goes rancid itself. You will find more about it in the article Jojoba oil: effects and uses.

In homemade cosmetics

In creams and balms, raspberry seed oil usually makes up 5–20% of the oil phase. Because of its sensitivity to heat, add it only as the mixture cools, not to a hot mixture, and use up the products within a few weeks.

Raspberry, blueberry or argan? A comparison of seed oils

When raspberry seed oil will do more harm than good

• In a diffuser. Raspberry seed oil does not evaporate; in an ultrasonic diffuser it settles on the membrane and the device stops working.
• Instead of sunscreen. In the sun, always use a product with a declared protection factor.
• When it goes rancid. An oil that smells sharp, like wax crayons or old nuts, no longer belongs on the skin. An oxidised oil irritates the skin.
• Without a test. Put a drop on the inner forearm and watch for 24 hours for redness or itching.
• Internally. A cosmetic oil in a 10 ml bottle with a dropper is not intended for eating.

Raspberry seed oil on its own is harmless for children and animals; what needs attention are the essential oils you add to it.

Children: According to the Tisserand and Young handbook (Essential Oil Safety, 2nd ed. 2014), peppermint is not diffused or applied to children under 3, because menthol can cause a reflex slowing of breathing. Oils rich in 1,8-cineole (globulus and radiata eucalyptus, rosemary, cardamom, ravintsara, cajeput) and mint do not belong on or near the face of children under 10. Diffuse in a room with a child only briefly, 2–3 drops, with ventilation and not by the cot. Never use essential oils internally; keep bottles out of the reach of children, and in case of ingestion call the Toxicological Information Centre: 224 919 293 or 224 915 402.

Cats and other animals: Cats cannot break down many substances from essential oils well. Do not apply any oil to their fur or into their bowls. The riskiest are tea tree, peppermint and other mints, eucalyptus, conifers (pine, fir, spruce, juniper, cypress), citrus (orange, lemon, grapefruit, bergamot), cinnamon, clove, thyme and oregano, gaultheria (wintergreen), ylang-ylang and pennyroyal. In a flat with a cat, run a diffuser only briefly, in a well-ventilated room and always so that the cat can leave. Do not run a diffuser at all in a room with birds.

How to choose and store raspberry seed oil

On the label, look for the Latin name Rubus idaeus and the words "seed oil" or "olej ze semen". A cold-pressed unrefined oil is golden and almost scentless; a refined one is lighter and more stable, but poorer. Buy it in dark glass and preferably in a smaller pack; 10–30 ml lasts for several weeks of daily use.

After opening, close the bottle well and store it in the cool and dark, ideally in the fridge door. Use it up within a few months. If the oil thickens or turns cloudy in the fridge, simply leave it for a while at room temperature.

Frequently asked questions

Does raspberry seed oil protect against the sun?

Not sufficiently. The SPF 28–50 figure comes from the study by Oomah et al. (2000), which measured the absorption of UV radiation by the oil itself in the laboratory, not a protection factor on skin according to ISO 24444. In the sun, always use a sunscreen with a declared factor.

Is raspberry seed oil an essential oil?

No. It is a carrier oil pressed from seeds, greasy and non-evaporating. An essential oil from raspberries cannot be obtained by distillation.

Does raspberry seed oil clog pores?

Usually not. Thanks to the high share of linoleic acid, even oilier skin mostly tolerates it well. If you are prone to acne, start with 1–2 drops and watch for a few days how your skin reacts.

Does raspberry seed oil smell of raspberries?

No. Cold-pressed raspberry seed oil has only a faint nutty scent or almost none. A distinct raspberry scent means added perfume.

Can I put raspberry seed oil in a diffuser or oil burner?

No. It is a carrier oil that does not evaporate. In a diffuser it settles on the membrane, and in an oil burner it is merely heated and starts to go rancid. Essential oils belong in a diffuser.

How long does raspberry seed oil last?

Unopened, usually until the date on the packaging. After opening, use it up within a few months and store it in the cool and dark, ideally in the fridge.

Is raspberry seed oil suitable for the face every day?

Yes, as an evening oil or under a cream. 2–4 drops are enough; the skin cannot absorb more and the rest just sits on the surface.

Raspberry seed oil and oils that go with it

The recommended products are from our range.

• BIO Raspberry, raspberry seed oil (10 ml) – a light carrier oil for the face, hair ends and as a base for face blends. It goes rancid faster; after opening it belongs in the fridge.
• BIO Jojoba (10 ml) – a stable carrier oil that, combined with raspberry seed oil, extends the shelf life of the blend.
• BIO Prickly Pear (10 ml) – a similarly light seed oil, for mature skin and the eye area.
• BIO Blueberry (10 ml) – a related berry seed oil with a high share of omega-3, when you want to alternate.
• BIO Argan (10 ml) – a more nourishing oil for drier skin and hair, if raspberry seed oil is not enough for you.

Sources

• Oomah B. D. et al.: Characteristics of raspberry (Rubus idaeus L.) seed oil (Food Chemistry, 2000)
• Ispiryan A. et al.: Physico-chemical properties and fatty acids profile of raspberry seed oil (Plants, 2023)
• The Quest for a Natural Sunscreen (Tisserand Institute)
• Phototoxicity: essential oils, sun and safety (Tisserand Institute)
• Cats and Essential Oil Safety (Tisserand Institute)

Updated: 27 September 2026