How to Grow Tomatoes

The most common questions I receive from spring until early autumn are about proper tomato growing (tomato seeds) and how to fix or avoid problems associated with cultivation. We all love growing tomatoes, but they do have their quirks. So I've put together a comprehensive article where I answer all possible questions in order and advise everyone on how to grow different types of tomatoes successfully, confidently, but above all simply.

Contents:

• climate and soil
• tomato seeds
• watering tomatoes
• tomato problems
• disease-resistant varieties
• harvest

You're probably ready to get started, so let's dig in!

Climate and Soil

Tomatoes love a nice warm spot in full sun and need 8 hours of sunlight per day, otherwise they may become weak and produce few fruits.

The ideal soil pH for growing tomatoes should be between 5.5 and 6.8. The soil should be fertile, deep, well-drained and rich in organic matter. If the soil remains wet in the areas where we want to plant, you need to build a raised bed. It's important that the soil holds water as evenly as possible, because uneven water intake can cause various problems for tomatoes. The most common include: flower drop, fruit cracking and blossom end rot.

If you want to create the most suitable environment for your tomatoes, a good amount of compost or organic matter is important. Generally, 3 inches of organic material into the top 6 inches of soil is recommended. You can also grow a cover crop to help build the soil. Let grain or legumes grow, cut them down and add them to the soil. This method is called green manure.

What's the Difference Between Non-Hybrid and Hybrid Varieties?

• Heirloom freely defined as open-pollinated varieties that were discovered many generations ago and were of such value that they were saved, preserved and passed down. It is generally agreed that no genetically modified plants can be considered heirloom varieties. Heirloom varieties are often not as productive as hybrids, but they usually taste better and you can save their seeds from one season to the next, or even grow a variety that is perfectly suited to your conditions. Most heirloom varieties are indeterminate types, meaning they grow into long, sprawling, vining plants and produce tomatoes continuously throughout the season.

• On the other hand, hybrids are tomatoes whose breeding has been controlled and organized for specific reasons. For example, they are bred to have greater disease resistance, which is exactly what heirloom varieties lack. In fact, hybrid tomato varieties have many advantages over open-pollinated varieties. Hybrids typically produce more fruit and ripen earlier and more uniformly. Their fruits tend to be of higher quality.

• It's really up to you which variety you want to grow. If you want to avoid hybrids and grow only non-hybrid varieties, you need to watch the labeling. Hybrids are usually marked with "F1". If you need or want disease-resistant tomatoes, you'll have to get hybrids. For example, VFFNTA means the plant is resistant to Verticillium wilt, Fusarium 1 and 2, root-knot Nematodes, Tobacco mosaic viruses, and Alternaria stem blight. A plant labeled VFFNTA is a good choice if your tomatoes have been affected by these diseases in the past.

Tomato Seeds

In areas with a long growing season, tomatoes can be planted directly in the garden, but most people start sowing them indoors 5-6 weeks before the last spring frost, and only then plant the seedlings in the garden. The main advantage of growing tomatoes from seeds is the huge range of varieties you can grow, as you're not dependent on whether a particular variety will be in stock at your garden center or nursery.

Planting and Fertilizing

I've always applied a small amount of balanced organic fertilizer such as 5-5-5 and mixed it into the soil just before planting. Generally, you shouldn't overdo fertilizing once the plant has established well and is in full bloom, as too much nitrogen creates lots of leaves but fewer fruits. However, I've found that applying a small amount of balanced fertilizer gives plants a good, healthy start.

The next time you fertilize should be when the tomatoes start flowering. Also, spraying the plant with a seaweed solution two or three times per season increases vigor, which helps climbing plants resist diseases.

Tip: Always plant tomatoes deep, laid on their side.

Dig a shallow bed. Remove the lower stems and branches from the tomatoes, leaving only the top leaves. Lay the entire plant on its side in the bed and cover with soil. Only the top leaves should be visible. Don't worry if the leaves are pointing sideways, it should correct itself and grow upright within a few days. I plant tomatoes laid on their side because the entire stem that is now buried will create roots, which gives the plant the best foundation to better absorb nutrients and water. Additionally, a more extensive root system close to the soil surface means the plant will have access to more warmth and will produce more tomatoes.

Watering and Mulching Tomatoes

When watering, always keep water around the base of the plant and keep the leaves dry. Tomatoes can become infected from spores floating in the air that land on wet plants, so never use sprinklers on the upper parts of plants. Of course, if it rains, there's nothing we can do about it, but otherwise try to keep the plants dry.

Water regularly, but allow the soil to dry out slightly between waterings. It's desirable for tomatoes to have a regular supply of water without being waterlogged.

In areas with high temperatures, you may need to mulch around the base of the plants to prevent the roots from drying out while also helping to maintain moisture.

Tomatoes being either too waterlogged or too dry causes the beginning of their problems. So try to keep the soil moist, but not wet. I know there's a very fine line between these concepts, so water according to the plant's needs. If they need to be watered every morning because temperatures rise above 38°C during summer where you live, then that's fine. If you live in areas where it's relatively cool all day, then watering every 2-3 days is sufficient.

Just be attentive and over time you'll learn when your plants need watering and you'll master it perfectly.

So, what have you decided to grow?

It all depends on the variety you want to have. It's not that one is better and another worse, they're just used to growing differently. The label on the seed packet or seedling will tell you what you have. Bush tomatoes don't need to be attached to a cage or trellis, but on the other hand, you don't have to do that with vine varieties either. Whether you use cages or not is just your choice and of course depends on the size of your garden. I've grown both types of tomatoes and regardless of what type it is, I let them sprawl on the ground. In the areas where I live, there are only very minor problems with pests and diseases, my plants thrive well.

However, if you live in humid areas where pests like slugs and snails can be a problem, or you have limited space to work with, then in your best interest let the tomatoes grow up a pole and try to get them off the ground. If you've decided to attach your plants to a stake, cage or trellis, do it when they're still small, so you don't damage the branches or roots. Use some thin cloth strip or strip made from natural materials to tie the plant to the cage. Don't use anything that can attach the plant to the stake. For example, wires or chains are unsuitable.

To prune suckers or not?

Some gardeners reduce tomatoes by pruning ground shoots, so-called suckers or leaf shoots that grow from the leaf axil. The axil is the "V" between the main stem and the side branches.

You can leave the shoots on the plant if you want. They don't harm it in any way. It depends on you how you want your tomatoes to grow. You can let your plants crawl on the ground, like I do. I've never removed suckers at all. If you can't decide, try pruning one plant and not the other. You'll see for yourself how both develop. That way you'll surely know which technique is best for you.

Did you know that tomatoes can be grown in bags? Heavy-duty bags are most suitable and it's always recommended to cut off the corners so water can drain away.

Common growing problems

• Catfacing - These are irregular shapes and lines, especially at the top of the tomatoes, caused by temperature changes and incomplete pollination during cold weather in the flowering period. There's nothing you can do about this. The tomatoes will still taste great. Next time, don't plant so early or choose a variety that is resistant to catfacing.

• Blossom End Rot - This problem is caused by poor calcium absorption due to inconsistent moisture. If you're dealing with this issue, remove all rotten or affected tomatoes, ensure consistent moisture, and maintain a layer of mulch on the soil. If you live in very hot areas, you need to mulch around your tomatoes to prevent them from drying out. They love moisture.

• Sunscald - This can occur whenever temperatures rise sharply. If the tomatoes are almost ripe, the entire fruits will likely rot. Remove the damaged tomatoes.

• Cracking or Splitting - This occurs when the skin of the plant stretches rapidly, which can be caused by a sudden increase in moisture after dry days, as well as summer rains after a dry period. To fix this, ensure consistent moisture for your tomatoes or look for a crack-resistant variety. Another reason for fruit cracking can be overripeness. Which isn't a bad thing at all, they're great to eat. Feel free to pick them. Many cherry tomatoes will crack even with the slightest temperature changes. After heavy rains, there's nothing you can do about it. If possible, harvest ripe fruits before the rain.

• Flowers form, but fruits develop only in small quantities or not at all - Tomato flowers drop prematurely during sudden weather changes, when it's very cold or very hot, or when the soil is too dry. Improve growing conditions. Mulch to keep the soil moist. Use Blossom Set, which is a purely natural product, gentle to the environment. It's a natural plant hormone that helps flowers set fruit despite bad weather and produce larger, meatier tomatoes with fewer seeds. Use it at the beginning of the season and your tomatoes will ripen up to three weeks earlier. When the flowers are in full bloom, spray them regularly and you'll have a larger harvest throughout the season. It can also be used for greater productivity of cucumbers, melons, eggplants, strawberries and peppers.

• Green shoulders - Some tomatoes are unmodified heirloom varieties and end up with "green shoulders". This is due to the way they grow and nothing can be done about it.

• Thick, tough skin on fruits - There can be several reasons.

• Variety differences - Many of the most common hybrids have been bred with tougher skin for transportation purposes. Varieties like Roma or Plum have genetically tough skin.

• Weather - Dry or very hot summers cause tomatoes to fruit with tough skin due to extreme temperature fluctuations. Even if you water the garden regularly, warmer sun and wind during the day can result in thicker skin, which helps plants retain moisture.

• Tomato hornworm caterpillars

• Early blight - Is caused by fungus that survives during winter on old climbing plants. To remedy, it's necessary to remove all infected leaves. In the future, avoid planting too densely and plant further apart, and prune shoots for good air circulation. It's also good to rotate tomatoes with other unrelated plants such as corn, beans or lettuce.

• Late Blight is caused by a fungus that thrives in warm weather. Its spores spread over long distances and can infect extensive areas. Again, avoid planting too densely, and if the infection is too severe and widespread, remove and destroy all affected plants.

• Wilting

Fusarium and Verticillium fungi cause parts of plants to wilt and can eventually kill them completely. Fusarium wilt causes leaves on one branch of an infected plant to turn yellow. Verticillium wilt first appears as yellowing between the main veins on mature leaves. To avoid these problems, look for resistant varieties and rotate plantings with unrelated crops such as corn, beans, or lettuce.

• Root-Knot Nematodes - This is caused by microscopic worms that live in the soil. In the future, plant resistant varieties and try rotating tomatoes with marigolds. Choose one of the French marigold varieties such as "Nema-gone", "Golden Guardian", or "Tangerine". Plant densely throughout the affected area and let them grow for at least three months. After three months, till them into the soil.

Prevent Infections from the Start - Growing healthy tomatoes is really very easy, but you need to keep several important things in mind.

Solarizing Your Soil

Let your soil be exposed to sunlight to control nematodes and weeds. It's also an effective protection against other pests and pathogens. Moisten the soil and cover it with a solid plastic sheet. For this method to be effective, the sheet must remain in place for at least three to four weeks during the hottest days of summer.

Plant Marigolds

Spider mites love marigolds, so planting them will attract pests to your garden, which isn't so great.

On the other hand, marigolds can be used to help the soil get rid of nematode problems if they work as intended. You should choose a French variety such as "Nema-gone", "Golden Guardian", or "Tangerine".

Before trying this method, consider all its advantages and disadvantages.

Rotate the Vegetables You Grow

To avoid soil-borne diseases, create a three-year crop rotation schedule in your garden and plant your tomatoes there, rotating them with unrelated crops such as corn, beans, or lettuce, or grow a cover crop. This will allow you to expose the soil to sunlight and break the disease cycle. Make sure you don't plant tomatoes in the same spot where other plant species from the same family (peppers, eggplants, and potatoes) have grown in the previous two years. This will help maintain their health. If this isn't possible, grow disease-resistant plants if you think your soil is infected with Fusarium or Verticillium wilt.

Remove Infected Plants

Never compost infected plants, as this risks spreading the infection to the rest of your garden. Instead, discard or burn infected plants and all garden waste such as compost or weeds that came into contact with them.

Grow Disease-Resistant Varieties

• Celebrity – A variety resistant to Alternaria stem canker, Fusarium 1 and 2, nematodes, gray leaf spot, tomato mosaic virus, and Verticillium wilt.

• Italian Gold – More resistant to rot.

• La Rossa – Resistant to Verticillium and Fusarium 1 and 2.

• Neptune – High temperature tolerance and resistance to bacterial rot. This variety is also resistant to Fusarium wilt 1 and 2, Verticillium rot 1, and gray leaf spot.

• Rutgers VFA – Known for its resistance to Verticillium and Fusarium.

• Ildi Yellow – Resistant to Verticillium and Fusarium, Tobacco mosaic virus, and Alternaria stem canker.

• Stupice – Produces very early and is cold-resistant.

• Sunmaster – Very heat-resistant. Can be pollinated at temperatures between 31 to 36°C. Also highly resistant to Verticillium and Fusarium 1 and 2, and Alternaria.

Harvest

Pick the fruits when they are fully coloured (red, yellow, etc.), but still firm, working from top to bottom. Harvest them frequently. In fact, it may be necessary to harvest them every day or every other day. Monitor how the fruits are developing.

Cold temperatures can also reduce the flavour of tomatoes. Therefore, do not store them in the fridge, but on the kitchen counter, where temperatures are above 10°C.