Perennials low

Low-Growing Perennial Mix

Proper composition and species selection are particularly important for perennial beds, as they will fulfill their aesthetic function for many years. Planting with perennials should always be irregular, though this doesn't mean they can be placed randomly. Low-growing perennials are suitable as frontal plantings for tall ones, and can also be grown in containers. Low-growing perennials also prevent vigorous weed growth.

How to Grow Low-Growing Perennials

• Regularly loosen the soil around perennials shallowly and remove weeds. Follow the light requirements of individual species; generally speaking, it's best to plant where they won't be exposed to midday sun heat. During periods of severe drought, perennials must be watered. Tie perennials with taller and weaker flower stems to stakes. Remove faded flower heads immediately. In autumn, cut off dried above-ground parts and cover species that overwinter poorly with conifer branches. In spring, remove the conifer branches after the last frost. Fertilize plants regularly.

• For most perennials, we sow directly into open ground on a well-prepared bed. Only delicate or rare species are sown in cold frames or greenhouses, or even indoors "on the windowsill". Loosen the bed thoroughly to a depth of 10-15 cm and remove weeds with maximum care, especially perennial weeds, which are very difficult to control later among emerging seedlings. For fine seeds, we broadcast sow - scatter the seed evenly over the bed surface; if it has been stratified, sow it together with the sand or peat in which it was stored. Then press the sowing into the soil and cover with a loose layer of soil.

  Sowing in cold frames is done for species sensitive to freezing and premature sprouting. The procedure is practically the same as for sowing in open ground.

  Sowing in a greenhouse or "on the windowsill" is done for plants sensitive to freezing with a long growing season, which must be sown as early as possible (February-March) so they have time to grow as much as possible by autumn. Sow in pots or seed trays filled with horticultural substrate for sowing. Sowing depth depends on seed size, usually 1-2 cm, or 2-6 cm when sowing in open ground. Cover the sowing with a mixture of substrate and crushed sand (1:1) or directly with a layer of pure sand. The exception is light-germinating plants, whose seeds are only lightly pressed. Germination temperature should be between 15-25°C.

• Soil should be airy and retain moisture. Sandy soil can be improved by mixing compost into its top layer. This makes the soil more cohesive and able to absorb more water.

• Adding a little cow manure to the compost ensures adequate nutrition for the plants. In spring, fertilize with compost and Cererit. Stop fertilizing perennials from August onwards.

• Spray aphids and other sap-sucking insects with Pirimor or Metathion; fight caterpillars, grubs, beetles and their larvae with Metathion. All nematodes spread through soil and infected plant parts. Therefore, affected plants must be carefully removed from the bed along with roots and surrounding soil, and the plant must be destroyed by burning. It's recommended to plant marigolds (Tagetes) in such beds, as they repel nematodes.

  Fungal diseases, i.e. black spot, rust, powdery mildew and mold, can be controlled with chemical sprays, e.g. Fundazol. It's better to cut off affected plant parts and burn them. Heavily damaged plants must be eliminated entirely, including roots. If the bed is heavily infested, it's better to transplant healthy plants elsewhere in time.