Correct timing is the key to every garden's success. Sow too early and seeds rot in cold soil or sprout prematurely and freeze. Sow too late and heat-loving crops won't ripen before autumn frosts arrive. This calendar guides you through the entire year month by month: what to start indoors by the...

In short: Chilli peppers and eggplant are started indoors in January–February and tomatoes mainly in February, at 20–25 °C. Peas, fava beans and spinach are sown outdoors from March once the soil is above 5 °C. Heat-loving crops such as beans, cucumbers, tomatoes and peppers go outside only after the Ice Saints, around May 15.

Indoor germination temperature20–25 °C (peppers 25–28 °C)
Safe date for heat-loving cropsafter May 15 (Ice Saints)
Peas, fava beans, spinachdirect sowing when soil is above 5 °C
Radishes, carrots, parsleydirect sowing when soil is above 8 °C
Bush beanssoil at least 12 °C
Fastest cropradishes, harvest in 25–30 days

Correct timing is the key to every garden's success. Sow too early and seeds rot in cold soil or sprout prematurely and freeze. Sow too late and heat-loving crops won't ripen before autumn frosts arrive. This calendar guides you through the entire year month by month: what to start indoors by the window, what to sow directly in beds, when to transplant into open ground, and when to harvest. It covers over 30 types of vegetables and herbs and is tailored to Czech climate conditions. Print it out and hang it on your shed wall – it will be your guide from the first sowings in February through to kale harvesting in December.


Climate Zones of the Czech Republic

The Czech Republic lies in a temperate climate zone, but local conditions vary significantly by elevation, location, and microclimate. For gardeners, two dates are critical: the date of the last spring frost and the date of the first autumn frost. The frost-free period between them determines what can actually be grown in your area.

Zone Overview

Zone Region Elevation Last Spring Frost (average) First Autumn Frost Frost-Free Period
Warm Lowlands South Moravia, Polabí, Žatec area Below 250 m Mid-April Mid-October 170–190 days
Moderately Warm Central Bohemia, Haná, Poodří 250–400 m Late April Early October 150–170 days
Moderate Vysočina, Podkrkonoší, foothills 400–600 m Early–mid-May Late September 130–150 days
Cold Šumava, Krkonoše, Jeseníky Above 600 m Late May–early June Mid-September 100–130 days

USDA Hardiness Zones: The Czech Republic ranges from zone 6b (mountain areas, lows around -20 °C) to zone 8a (warmest lowlands, lows around -12 °C). Most gardens fall into zones 6b–7b.

The Ice Saints (Pankrác, Servác, Bonifác)

May 12–14 – the traditional date after which frosts shouldn't occur. In recent decades, the last frost in lowlands has shifted to late April, but the safe threshold for heat-loving crops remains May 15. In mountainous areas and frost-prone valleys, wait until late May.

Tip: Monitor the Czech Hydrometeorological Institute (ČHMÚ) forecast – no calendar can replace actual weather data for your specific location.


January – Planning and Preparation

The garden rests, but the gardener doesn't. January is ideal for thoughtful planning that pays off all season long.

What to Do

  • Order seeds – browse our selection of vegetable seeds and herbs and plan your crop rotation
  • Study your crop rotation plan – plan plant succession, green manuring, and suitable companion planting combinations
  • Check your supplies – stock up on substrate, seeders, pots, and fertilizers while they're available
  • Pre-sprout potatoes: From mid-January, spread seed potatoes in a bright spot at 10–15 °C. In 4–6 weeks they'll develop strong, short sprouts, making planting much easier

Indoor Seed Starting (20–25 °C)

Crop Notes
Chilli Peppers Longest growing season of all vegetables – start as early as possible for maximum harvest (January–February)
Eggplant Slow germination and growth; needs 8–10 weeks of indoor start before transplanting outdoors

February – First Indoor Sowings

Days noticeably lengthen and sun strengthens – time to wake your windowsill nursery to life.

Indoor Seed Starting (20–25 °C)

Crop Depth Germination (days) Notes
Tomatoes 0.5–1 cm 7–14 Main seeding time for indoor starts; results are better than March sowing
Peppers 0.5–1 cm 10–21 Require steady warmth (25 °C); slower germination at lower temps
Eggplant 0.5 cm 14–21 Warmth, plenty of light, and patience – germinates slowest of all vegetables
Celery (bulb and leaf) Surface 14–21 Seeds germinate in light – don't cover with substrate, just press in lightly
Broccoli, Cauliflower 1 cm 5–10 Early varieties for transplanting to cold frames in April
Heading Lettuce 0.5 cm 5–10 For earliest spring harvest; transplant under row cover in April
Kohlrabi 1 cm 5–10 Early varieties for June harvest
Onions from Seed 1 cm 10–14 For large, well-developed bulbs, start as early as possible

Tips for Successful Indoor Starting

  • Use quality seed-starting substrate – fine-textured, sterilized, with good drainage
  • Supplement with LED grow lights – February sun isn't enough even on south-facing windows; without supplemental light, seedlings stretch and weaken
  • Germination temperature is critical: tomatoes 22–25 °C, peppers 25–28 °C, eggplant 25 °C
  • After germination, lower temperature to 18–20 °C – seedlings grow more compactly and root better

March – The Season Begins

A crucial month – windowsills and nurseries come alive, and if weather permits, the first direct sowings go into beds.

Indoor Seed Starting

Crop Notes
Tomatoes (late seeding) Still possible – final harvest will be just 2–3 weeks later
Squash, Pumpkins From mid-March; large seeds go into bigger pots–roots dislike transplanting
Zucchini Like squash – start 3–4 weeks before planting, not longer (plants outgrow containers quickly)
Cucumbers End of March for greenhouse growing; late April–May for outdoors
Sweet Corn In cell packs; transplant after May 15 without disturbing roots
Basil On a warm windowsill – heat-loving herb that survives outdoors only after the Ice Saints
Pattysan Squash 3–4 weeks of starting, same process as zucchini
Heading Cabbage Early varieties for transplanting into beds or cold frames in April

Direct Sowing Outdoors (weather-dependent)

Crop Condition Depth Notes
Peas Soil above 5 °C 3–5 cm From mid-March in lowlands; survives frost to -5 °C without problems
Fava Beans Soil above 5 °C 5–8 cm Very frost-hardy (-5 °C or lower); good for cooler regions
Spring Garlic As soon as possible 5 cm Fall planting gives larger bulbs, but spring is a viable alternative
Spinach Soil above 5 °C 2–3 cm Quick harvest in 6 weeks; bolts in heat – sow early
Radishes Soil above 8 °C 1–2 cm Fastest vegetable – first harvest in 25–30 days
Carrots (early varieties) Soil above 8 °C 1–1.5 cm Slow germination (14–21 days); cover with row cover to speed it up
Parsley Soil above 8 °C 1 cm Extremely slow germination (up to 30 days); don't confuse seedlings with weeds
Parsnip Soil above 8 °C 1.5–2 cm Use only fresh seed – viability drops quickly
Onion Sets As soon as possible 3 cm Sets go directly into beds; earlier planting = larger harvested onions

Other Tasks

  • Cover crops: Use row cover or plastic tunnels on early sowings – speeds germination and protects from late frosts
  • Compost: Turn over overwintered compost and add activator to speed decomposition
  • Soil: Once soil dries, lightly loosen the surface – deep tilling of wet soil destroys its structure

April – Beds Come Alive

Nature explodes – spinach, radishes, and peas are already growing; windowsills overflow with seedlings awaiting transplanting and beds fill quickly.

Indoor Seed Starting

Crop Notes
Cucumbers (outdoor varieties) 3–4 weeks before planting (after the Ice Saints); don't start too early
Zucchini, Squash (late seeding) If you missed March; plant directly after frosts
Beans Indoor starting in pots speeds harvest by 1–2 weeks
Annual Flowers For summer beds and to naturally attract pollinators

Direct Sowing Outdoors

Crop Depth Spacing Notes
Carrots 1–1.5 cm Rows 25 cm apart Main seeding time – harvest August through October
Beets 2–3 cm 10 cm in row Multi-germ seeds – thin to 10 cm after sprouting
Radishes 1–2 cm 3–5 cm Successive sowing every 2 weeks for continuous supply
Lettuce (direct sow) 0.5–1 cm 25 cm Successive sowing in small batches
Peas 3–5 cm 5 cm Second sowing extends harvest by 2–3 weeks
Mangel 2–3 cm 20–30 cm Hardy and undemanding; harvested all summer and fall
Dill 1 cm Broadcast Sow successively every 3–4 weeks for continuous supply
Parsley 1 cm 5 cm If you missed March; germination takes up to 30 days
Onions (from seed directly) 1 cm 8–10 cm Harvest will be 3–4 weeks later than from sets
Leek 1 cm 15 cm Transplant to deep trenches in June for blanching the stem

Hardening Off and Transplanting Outdoors (to cold frame or under row cover)

Crop Condition Notes
Lettuce (started indoors) No hard frosts Under row cover (17 g/m² is sufficient)
Kohlrabi No severe frosts Tolerates short frosts down to -3 °C
Broccoli, Cauliflower No frosts Early varieties; cold frame speeds harvest
Cabbage No frosts Early varieties for June harvest
Celery From mid-April Under row cover; frost-sensitive

Other Tasks

  • Potatoes: Plant early varieties (from mid-April in lowlands, early May elsewhere)
  • Strawberries: Remove overwintered leaves, apply nitrogen fertilizer
  • Fruit Trees: Last chance for spring pruning before bloom
  • Fertilizing Beds: Incorporate compost or aged manure – nutrients will be available for first plantings

May – Critical Month

After the Ice Saints (May 15), the last barriers fall – all heat-loving crops go out, beds fill to capacity.

Direct Sowing Outdoors (after May 15)

Crop Depth Spacing Notes
Bush Beans 3–5 cm 15–20 cm Heat-loving – sow only into soil at least 12 °C
Pole Beans 3–5 cm 30 cm by stakes Set up trellises (poles, nets) before sowing
Sweet Corn 3–5 cm 30 cm Sow in blocks, not rows – for wind pollination to succeed
Cucumbers 2–3 cm 40–60 cm Only into warm soil; mulching significantly increases yields
Zucchini 3 cm 80–100 cm One plant occupies about 1 m² – don't overcrowd
Pumpkins 3–4 cm 100–150 cm Enormous sprawl – plan space carefully
Sunflowers 2–3 cm 40–80 cm See our sunflower guide
Beets 2–3 cm 10 cm Successive sowing through mid-July
Radishes 1–2 cm 3–5 cm Successive sowing every 2 weeks
Pod Beans (for pods) 3 cm 8 cm Harvest young; for dried grain, let mature on plant

Transplanting Outdoors (after Ice Saints)

Crop Spacing Notes
Tomatoes 50–60 cm Plant deeper than in the pot – buried stem develops additional roots
Peppers 40–50 cm Choose warmest, sheltered location; sensitive to wind
Chilli Peppers 40 cm Love heat – south-facing wall or cold frame essential
Eggplant 50 cm Most heat-demanding vegetable – south-facing wall or cold frame required
Cucumbers (started indoors) 40–60 cm Mulch immediately after planting
Zucchini (started indoors) 80–100 cm Mulch with compost – moisture is critical
Pumpkins (started indoors) 100–150 cm Work well-aged compost around roots
Celery 30–40 cm Don't plant too deep – bulb must protrude above soil
Basil 25 cm Heat, sun, sheltered location without wind; avoid watering during cold nights
Melons 80–100 cm Only in cold frame or warmest garden spot
Sweet Potatoes 30 cm Into beds or large containers with good drainage

Harvest

  • Spinach (spring sowing)
  • Radishes (first sowing)
  • Lettuce (started indoors, under row cover)
  • Asparagus (established beds, 3+ years old)
  • Rhubarb
  • Spring Onions

Other Tasks

  • Mulching: Immediately after transplanting, mulch beds with straw, mown grass, or wood chips (5–10 cm) – conserves moisture and suppresses weeds
  • Drip Irrigation: Install drip lines to tomatoes, peppers, and cucumbers – consistent watering prevents many diseases
  • Weeding: Regular early weeding is many times easier than battling overgrown weeds

June – Garden in Full Swing

Everything grows, including weeds. Watering becomes a daily priority and first real harvests reward spring labor.

Direct Sowing Outdoors

Crop Notes
Beans (second sowing) Extends harvest by 3–4 weeks
Beets Successive sowing through mid-July
Radishes Caution – summer heat makes them bolt quickly. Sow in part shade or wait for August.
Lettuce Choose summer bolt-resistant varieties
Dill Successive sowing every 3 weeks
Fennel For fall harvest from September onward
Endive For fall harvest from September onward
Green Manure On harvested beds, immediately sow buckwheat or millet – see our green manure guide

Transplanting and Planting

  • Leek: Transplant to deep trenches (10–15 cm) – earthing up the stem adds tenderness and flavor
  • Late Cabbage: Plant for fall and winter harvest, also for sauerkraut
  • Broccoli, Cauliflower: Late varieties for September–October harvest
  • Kale, Cavolo Nero: For winter bed; frost actually improves flavor

Harvest

  • Strawberries – main season; pick daily
  • Peas – first pods; harvest regularly to stimulate more flowering
  • Spinach – finish harvest (bolts in heat and becomes bitter)
  • Lettuce – continuous harvest
  • Radishes – continuously
  • Early Potatoes
  • Kohlrabi (early varieties)
  • Fava Beans
  • Spring Onions
  • Herb Bed – basil, mint, thyme, oregano in full force

Care

  • Tomatoes: Regularly remove suckers, tie to stakes every 15–20 cm of growth
  • Cucumbers: Mulch and water regularly – irregular watering causes bitter fruit
  • Watering: Water early morning or evening, deeply at roots, not overhead (prevents fungal disease)
  • Feeding: Top-dress tomatoes, peppers, and cucumbers with potassium fertilizer every 2 weeks

July – Harvest Begins

Most beautiful month in the garden – colors, aromas, and full baskets reward patience from previous months.

Direct Sowing Outdoors

Crop Notes
Beans Last opportunity for bush beans; harvest in September
Fennel For fall bulb harvest
Asian Greens (bok choy, mizuna) From mid-July – sensitive to day length, bolt earlier
Endive, Escarole For fall harvest; frost-hardier than lettuce
Mangel For rich fall and winter harvest
Radishes Again suitable – shorter days limit bolting
Green Manure On harvested beds immediately, sow mustard or radish seed cake

Harvest – Main Season

Crop Notes
Tomatoes Greenhouse from mid-July, field from late July
Cucumbers Pick young – regular harvest stimulates more fruit production
Zucchini Harvest at 20–25 cm length – oversized fruit is watery and flavorless
Bean Pods Pick crisp and young; overgrown pods are tough
Peas Finish harvest; sweetness decreases in heat
Garlic Harvest when foliage yellows and dies back
Onions Harvest when foliage naturally falls to ground
Carrots (early varieties) Continuous harvest from 1.5 cm diameter onward
Beets First harvest at 5–7 cm diameter
Potatoes (medium-early) Test-dig one plant; skin shouldn't peel off
Broccoli (early varieties) Cutting the main head stimulates abundant side shoots
Peppers First green peppers from late July onward
Herbs Ideal time for drying – bay leaf, thyme, oregano, rosemary
Currants, Blueberries, Raspberries Pick daily; overripe fruit attracts pests

August – Full Harvest and Fall Bed Preparation

Baskets overflow, but a farsighted gardener thinks three months ahead – fall and winter beds are established now.

Direct Sowing Outdoors

Crop Notes
Spinach (fall) From mid-August – shorter days and cooler nights are ideal conditions
Radishes Fall varieties (Mino, daikon) for October harvest
Lettuce Fall varieties; cover with row cover after sprouting
Corn Salad (Mâche) August–September; overwinters under snow, harvest October through spring
Arugula Quick harvest in 25–30 days; fall temperatures limit bitterness
Asian Greens Short season, fall harvest from September
Winter Garlic Late August–September is optimal – see September
Green Manure Winter rye, hairy vetch, clover – sow on all harvested beds

Harvest

Crop Notes
Tomatoes Main outdoor season – daily continuous harvest
Peppers Green continuously; for red peppers, leave 2–3 weeks longer on plant
Chilli Peppers August through first frost; longer on plant = hotter peppers
Zucchini Unstoppable until first frost; stop only with freezing temperatures
Cucumbers Finish harvest; overripe fruit slows new production
Sweet Corn Harvest when silk browns and grain releases milky liquid when pierced
Beans Continuously for pods; for dried grain leave until mature and dry on plant
Onions Finish harvesting – let pull and dry

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