Correct timing is the key to every garden's success. Sow too early and seeds rot in cold soil or sprout prematurely and freeze. Sow too late and heat-loving crops won't ripen before autumn frosts arrive. This calendar guides you through the entire year month by month: what to start indoors by the...
Correct timing is the key to every garden's success. Sow too early and seeds rot in cold soil or sprout prematurely and freeze. Sow too late and heat-loving crops won't ripen before autumn frosts arrive. This calendar guides you through the entire year month by month: what to start indoors by the window, what to sow directly in beds, when to transplant into open ground, and when to harvest. It covers over 30 types of vegetables and herbs and is tailored to Czech climate conditions. Print it out and hang it on your shed wall – it will be your guide from the first sowings in February through to kale harvesting in December.
Climate Zones of the Czech Republic
The Czech Republic lies in a temperate climate zone, but local conditions vary significantly by elevation, location, and microclimate. For gardeners, two dates are critical: the date of the last spring frost and the date of the first autumn frost. The frost-free period between them determines what can actually be grown in your area.
Zone Overview
| Zone |
Region |
Elevation |
Last Spring Frost (average) |
First Autumn Frost |
Frost-Free Period |
| Warm Lowlands |
South Moravia, Polabí, Žatec area |
Below 250 m |
Mid-April |
Mid-October |
170–190 days |
| Moderately Warm |
Central Bohemia, Haná, Poodří |
250–400 m |
Late April |
Early October |
150–170 days |
| Moderate |
Vysočina, Podkrkonoší, foothills |
400–600 m |
Early–mid-May |
Late September |
130–150 days |
| Cold |
Šumava, Krkonoše, Jeseníky |
Above 600 m |
Late May–early June |
Mid-September |
100–130 days |
USDA Hardiness Zones: The Czech Republic ranges from zone 6b (mountain areas, lows around -20 °C) to zone 8a (warmest lowlands, lows around -12 °C). Most gardens fall into zones 6b–7b.
The Ice Saints (Pankrác, Servác, Bonifác)
May 12–14 – the traditional date after which frosts shouldn't occur. In recent decades, the last frost in lowlands has shifted to late April, but the safe threshold for heat-loving crops remains May 15. In mountainous areas and frost-prone valleys, wait until late May.
Tip: Monitor the Czech Hydrometeorological Institute (ČHMÚ) forecast – no calendar can replace actual weather data for your specific location.
January – Planning and Preparation
The garden rests, but the gardener doesn't. January is ideal for thoughtful planning that pays off all season long.
What to Do
- Order seeds – browse our selection of vegetable seeds and herbs and plan your crop rotation
- Study your crop rotation plan – plan plant succession, green manuring, and suitable companion planting combinations
- Check your supplies – stock up on substrate, seeders, pots, and fertilizers while they're available
- Pre-sprout potatoes: From mid-January, spread seed potatoes in a bright spot at 10–15 °C. In 4–6 weeks they'll develop strong, short sprouts, making planting much easier
Indoor Seed Starting (20–25 °C)
| Crop |
Notes |
| Chilli Peppers |
Longest growing season of all vegetables – start as early as possible for maximum harvest (January–February) |
| Eggplant |
Slow germination and growth; needs 8–10 weeks of indoor start before transplanting outdoors |
February – First Indoor Sowings
Days noticeably lengthen and sun strengthens – time to wake your windowsill nursery to life.
Indoor Seed Starting (20–25 °C)
| Crop |
Depth |
Germination (days) |
Notes |
| Tomatoes |
0.5–1 cm |
7–14 |
Main seeding time for indoor starts; results are better than March sowing |
| Peppers |
0.5–1 cm |
10–21 |
Require steady warmth (25 °C); slower germination at lower temps |
| Eggplant |
0.5 cm |
14–21 |
Warmth, plenty of light, and patience – germinates slowest of all vegetables |
| Celery (bulb and leaf) |
Surface |
14–21 |
Seeds germinate in light – don't cover with substrate, just press in lightly |
| Broccoli, Cauliflower |
1 cm |
5–10 |
Early varieties for transplanting to cold frames in April |
| Heading Lettuce |
0.5 cm |
5–10 |
For earliest spring harvest; transplant under row cover in April |
| Kohlrabi |
1 cm |
5–10 |
Early varieties for June harvest |
| Onions from Seed |
1 cm |
10–14 |
For large, well-developed bulbs, start as early as possible |
Tips for Successful Indoor Starting
- Use quality seed-starting substrate – fine-textured, sterilized, with good drainage
- Supplement with LED grow lights – February sun isn't enough even on south-facing windows; without supplemental light, seedlings stretch and weaken
- Germination temperature is critical: tomatoes 22–25 °C, peppers 25–28 °C, eggplant 25 °C
- After germination, lower temperature to 18–20 °C – seedlings grow more compactly and root better
March – The Season Begins
A crucial month – windowsills and nurseries come alive, and if weather permits, the first direct sowings go into beds.
Indoor Seed Starting
| Crop |
Notes |
| Tomatoes (late seeding) |
Still possible – final harvest will be just 2–3 weeks later |
| Squash, Pumpkins |
From mid-March; large seeds go into bigger pots–roots dislike transplanting |
| Zucchini |
Like squash – start 3–4 weeks before planting, not longer (plants outgrow containers quickly) |
| Cucumbers |
End of March for greenhouse growing; late April–May for outdoors |
| Sweet Corn |
In cell packs; transplant after May 15 without disturbing roots |
| Basil |
On a warm windowsill – heat-loving herb that survives outdoors only after the Ice Saints |
| Pattysan Squash |
3–4 weeks of starting, same process as zucchini |
| Heading Cabbage |
Early varieties for transplanting into beds or cold frames in April |
Direct Sowing Outdoors (weather-dependent)
| Crop |
Condition |
Depth |
Notes |
| Peas |
Soil above 5 °C |
3–5 cm |
From mid-March in lowlands; survives frost to -5 °C without problems |
| Fava Beans |
Soil above 5 °C |
5–8 cm |
Very frost-hardy (-5 °C or lower); good for cooler regions |
| Spring Garlic |
As soon as possible |
5 cm |
Fall planting gives larger bulbs, but spring is a viable alternative |
| Spinach |
Soil above 5 °C |
2–3 cm |
Quick harvest in 6 weeks; bolts in heat – sow early |
| Radishes |
Soil above 8 °C |
1–2 cm |
Fastest vegetable – first harvest in 25–30 days |
| Carrots (early varieties) |
Soil above 8 °C |
1–1.5 cm |
Slow germination (14–21 days); cover with row cover to speed it up |
| Parsley |
Soil above 8 °C |
1 cm |
Extremely slow germination (up to 30 days); don't confuse seedlings with weeds |
| Parsnip |
Soil above 8 °C |
1.5–2 cm |
Use only fresh seed – viability drops quickly |
| Onion Sets |
As soon as possible |
3 cm |
Sets go directly into beds; earlier planting = larger harvested onions |
Other Tasks
- Cover crops: Use row cover or plastic tunnels on early sowings – speeds germination and protects from late frosts
- Compost: Turn over overwintered compost and add activator to speed decomposition
- Soil: Once soil dries, lightly loosen the surface – deep tilling of wet soil destroys its structure
April – Beds Come Alive
Nature explodes – spinach, radishes, and peas are already growing; windowsills overflow with seedlings awaiting transplanting and beds fill quickly.
Indoor Seed Starting
| Crop |
Notes |
| Cucumbers (outdoor varieties) |
3–4 weeks before planting (after the Ice Saints); don't start too early |
| Zucchini, Squash (late seeding) |
If you missed March; plant directly after frosts |
| Beans |
Indoor starting in pots speeds harvest by 1–2 weeks |
| Annual Flowers |
For summer beds and to naturally attract pollinators |
Direct Sowing Outdoors
| Crop |
Depth |
Spacing |
Notes |
| Carrots |
1–1.5 cm |
Rows 25 cm apart |
Main seeding time – harvest August through October |
| Beets |
2–3 cm |
10 cm in row |
Multi-germ seeds – thin to 10 cm after sprouting |
| Radishes |
1–2 cm |
3–5 cm |
Successive sowing every 2 weeks for continuous supply |
| Lettuce (direct sow) |
0.5–1 cm |
25 cm |
Successive sowing in small batches |
| Peas |
3–5 cm |
5 cm |
Second sowing extends harvest by 2–3 weeks |
| Mangel |
2–3 cm |
20–30 cm |
Hardy and undemanding; harvested all summer and fall |
| Dill |
1 cm |
Broadcast |
Sow successively every 3–4 weeks for continuous supply |
| Parsley |
1 cm |
5 cm |
If you missed March; germination takes up to 30 days |
| Onions (from seed directly) |
1 cm |
8–10 cm |
Harvest will be 3–4 weeks later than from sets |
| Leek |
1 cm |
15 cm |
Transplant to deep trenches in June for blanching the stem |
Hardening Off and Transplanting Outdoors (to cold frame or under row cover)
| Crop |
Condition |
Notes |
| Lettuce (started indoors) |
No hard frosts |
Under row cover (17 g/m² is sufficient) |
| Kohlrabi |
No severe frosts |
Tolerates short frosts down to -3 °C |
| Broccoli, Cauliflower |
No frosts |
Early varieties; cold frame speeds harvest |
| Cabbage |
No frosts |
Early varieties for June harvest |
| Celery |
From mid-April |
Under row cover; frost-sensitive |
Other Tasks
- Potatoes: Plant early varieties (from mid-April in lowlands, early May elsewhere)
- Strawberries: Remove overwintered leaves, apply nitrogen fertilizer
- Fruit Trees: Last chance for spring pruning before bloom
- Fertilizing Beds: Incorporate compost or aged manure – nutrients will be available for first plantings
May – Critical Month
After the Ice Saints (May 15), the last barriers fall – all heat-loving crops go out, beds fill to capacity.
Direct Sowing Outdoors (after May 15)
| Crop |
Depth |
Spacing |
Notes |
| Bush Beans |
3–5 cm |
15–20 cm |
Heat-loving – sow only into soil at least 12 °C |
| Pole Beans |
3–5 cm |
30 cm by stakes |
Set up trellises (poles, nets) before sowing |
| Sweet Corn |
3–5 cm |
30 cm |
Sow in blocks, not rows – for wind pollination to succeed |
| Cucumbers |
2–3 cm |
40–60 cm |
Only into warm soil; mulching significantly increases yields |
| Zucchini |
3 cm |
80–100 cm |
One plant occupies about 1 m² – don't overcrowd |
| Pumpkins |
3–4 cm |
100–150 cm |
Enormous sprawl – plan space carefully |
| Sunflowers |
2–3 cm |
40–80 cm |
See our sunflower guide |
| Beets |
2–3 cm |
10 cm |
Successive sowing through mid-July |
| Radishes |
1–2 cm |
3–5 cm |
Successive sowing every 2 weeks |
| Pod Beans (for pods) |
3 cm |
8 cm |
Harvest young; for dried grain, let mature on plant |
Transplanting Outdoors (after Ice Saints)
| Crop |
Spacing |
Notes |
| Tomatoes |
50–60 cm |
Plant deeper than in the pot – buried stem develops additional roots |
| Peppers |
40–50 cm |
Choose warmest, sheltered location; sensitive to wind |
| Chilli Peppers |
40 cm |
Love heat – south-facing wall or cold frame essential |
| Eggplant |
50 cm |
Most heat-demanding vegetable – south-facing wall or cold frame required |
| Cucumbers (started indoors) |
40–60 cm |
Mulch immediately after planting |
| Zucchini (started indoors) |
80–100 cm |
Mulch with compost – moisture is critical |
| Pumpkins (started indoors) |
100–150 cm |
Work well-aged compost around roots |
| Celery |
30–40 cm |
Don't plant too deep – bulb must protrude above soil |
| Basil |
25 cm |
Heat, sun, sheltered location without wind; avoid watering during cold nights |
| Melons |
80–100 cm |
Only in cold frame or warmest garden spot |
| Sweet Potatoes |
30 cm |
Into beds or large containers with good drainage |
Harvest
- Spinach (spring sowing)
- Radishes (first sowing)
- Lettuce (started indoors, under row cover)
- Asparagus (established beds, 3+ years old)
- Rhubarb
- Spring Onions
Other Tasks
- Mulching: Immediately after transplanting, mulch beds with straw, mown grass, or wood chips (5–10 cm) – conserves moisture and suppresses weeds
- Drip Irrigation: Install drip lines to tomatoes, peppers, and cucumbers – consistent watering prevents many diseases
- Weeding: Regular early weeding is many times easier than battling overgrown weeds
June – Garden in Full Swing
Everything grows, including weeds. Watering becomes a daily priority and first real harvests reward spring labor.
Direct Sowing Outdoors
| Crop |
Notes |
| Beans (second sowing) |
Extends harvest by 3–4 weeks |
| Beets |
Successive sowing through mid-July |
| Radishes |
Caution – summer heat makes them bolt quickly. Sow in part shade or wait for August. |
| Lettuce |
Choose summer bolt-resistant varieties |
| Dill |
Successive sowing every 3 weeks |
| Fennel |
For fall harvest from September onward |
| Endive |
For fall harvest from September onward |
| Green Manure |
On harvested beds, immediately sow buckwheat or millet – see our green manure guide |
Transplanting and Planting
- Leek: Transplant to deep trenches (10–15 cm) – earthing up the stem adds tenderness and flavor
- Late Cabbage: Plant for fall and winter harvest, also for sauerkraut
- Broccoli, Cauliflower: Late varieties for September–October harvest
- Kale, Cavolo Nero: For winter bed; frost actually improves flavor
Harvest
- Strawberries – main season; pick daily
- Peas – first pods; harvest regularly to stimulate more flowering
- Spinach – finish harvest (bolts in heat and becomes bitter)
- Lettuce – continuous harvest
- Radishes – continuously
- Early Potatoes
- Kohlrabi (early varieties)
- Fava Beans
- Spring Onions
- Herb Bed – basil, mint, thyme, oregano in full force
Care
- Tomatoes: Regularly remove suckers, tie to stakes every 15–20 cm of growth
- Cucumbers: Mulch and water regularly – irregular watering causes bitter fruit
- Watering: Water early morning or evening, deeply at roots, not overhead (prevents fungal disease)
- Feeding: Top-dress tomatoes, peppers, and cucumbers with potassium fertilizer every 2 weeks
July – Harvest Begins
Most beautiful month in the garden – colors, aromas, and full baskets reward patience from previous months.
Direct Sowing Outdoors
| Crop |
Notes |
| Beans |
Last opportunity for bush beans; harvest in September |
| Fennel |
For fall bulb harvest |
| Asian Greens (bok choy, mizuna) |
From mid-July – sensitive to day length, bolt earlier |
| Endive, Escarole |
For fall harvest; frost-hardier than lettuce |
| Mangel |
For rich fall and winter harvest |
| Radishes |
Again suitable – shorter days limit bolting |
| Green Manure |
On harvested beds immediately, sow mustard or radish seed cake |
Harvest – Main Season
| Crop |
Notes |
| Tomatoes |
Greenhouse from mid-July, field from late July |
| Cucumbers |
Pick young – regular harvest stimulates more fruit production |
| Zucchini |
Harvest at 20–25 cm length – oversized fruit is watery and flavorless |
| Bean Pods |
Pick crisp and young; overgrown pods are tough |
| Peas |
Finish harvest; sweetness decreases in heat |
| Garlic |
Harvest when foliage yellows and dies back |
| Onions |
Harvest when foliage naturally falls to ground |
| Carrots (early varieties) |
Continuous harvest from 1.5 cm diameter onward |
| Beets |
First harvest at 5–7 cm diameter |
| Potatoes (medium-early) |
Test-dig one plant; skin shouldn't peel off |
| Broccoli (early varieties) |
Cutting the main head stimulates abundant side shoots |
| Peppers |
First green peppers from late July onward |
| Herbs |
Ideal time for drying – bay leaf, thyme, oregano, rosemary |
| Currants, Blueberries, Raspberries |
Pick daily; overripe fruit attracts pests |
August – Full Harvest and Fall Bed Preparation
Baskets overflow, but a farsighted gardener thinks three months ahead – fall and winter beds are established now.
Direct Sowing Outdoors
| Crop |
Notes |
| Spinach (fall) |
From mid-August – shorter days and cooler nights are ideal conditions |
| Radishes |
Fall varieties (Mino, daikon) for October harvest |
| Lettuce |
Fall varieties; cover with row cover after sprouting |
| Corn Salad (Mâche) |
August–September; overwinters under snow, harvest October through spring |
| Arugula |
Quick harvest in 25–30 days; fall temperatures limit bitterness |
| Asian Greens |
Short season, fall harvest from September |
| Winter Garlic |
Late August–September is optimal – see September |
| Green Manure |
Winter rye, hairy vetch, clover – sow on all harvested beds |
Harvest
| Crop |
Notes |
| Tomatoes |
Main outdoor season – daily continuous harvest |
| Peppers |
Green continuously; for red peppers, leave 2–3 weeks longer on plant |
| Chilli Peppers |
August through first frost; longer on plant = hotter peppers |
| Zucchini |
Unstoppable until first frost; stop only with freezing temperatures |
| Cucumbers |
Finish harvest; overripe fruit slows new production |
| Sweet Corn |
Harvest when silk browns and grain releases milky liquid when pierced |
| Beans |
Continuously for pods; for dried grain leave until mature and dry on plant |
| Onions |
Finish harvesting – let pull and dry |