Flower Arranging: Basics for Beautiful Bouquets and Arrangements
In this article, you'll learn the fundamentals of selecting the right arrangement for your room, choosing flowers, and creating the arrangement itself. We'll share useful advice and tips for flower arranging and preservation.
Choosing the Right Arrangement for Your Space
Before you start creating your floral arrangement, consider the space where it will be displayed. The size of the room, the available surface area, and the overall interior style all play important roles in selecting the appropriate arrangement type.
For smaller spaces, opt for compact arrangements or single-stem displays in narrow vases. In larger rooms, you can afford more voluminous compositions that will become a striking focal point.
Selecting the Right Flowers
When choosing flowers for your arrangement, consider several factors:
- Season – seasonal flowers are fresher and more affordable
- Color palette – flowers should complement your interior design
- Longevity – some species last longer than others
- Fragrance – consider whether you want scented or unscented flowers
Basic Arranging Techniques
The key to a successful arrangement is proper preparation. Start by cutting the stems at a 45-degree angle under running water. Remove leaves that would be submerged in water to prevent bacterial growth.
Build your arrangement gradually, starting with focal flowers – the largest and most striking blooms. Add supporting flowers and greenery around them to create volume and texture.
Tips for Keeping Flowers Fresh Longer
To extend the life of your floral arrangement, follow these recommendations:
- Change the water every 2-3 days
- Keep arrangements away from direct sunlight and heat sources
- Remove wilted flowers promptly
- Re-cut stems every few days
- Use flower food or add a small amount of sugar to the water
With these basic principles, you'll be able to create beautiful floral arrangements that will brighten your home and last as long as possible.
Plants, whether potted or cut, bring colours and life into a room. They brighten up both the space and your mood.
So treat yourself as well, bring the beauty of flowers into your life!
There are many ways to arrange plants, from dense round bouquets of a single flower species through arrangements symbolising nature to modern austere and elegant shapes.
It depends on you which type suits you and your home, and also on the types of flowers and accessories you have available.
In this article you will learn: choosing the right type of arrangement, selecting flowers, basic binding techniques, a few words about aesthetics, a vase is not just a container with water, and how to keep flowers beautiful.
Choose the Right Type
For flowers to work best in an interior, besides our enthusiasm, we must also consider the environment where they will be placed.
We try to harmonise flowers with their surroundings. In other words, in a country cottage we won't use an extravagant arrangement of anthuriums and palm leaves, but rather choose flowers reminiscent of a flowering meadow - daisies, bluebells, forget-me-nots, sunflowers, marigolds, grass leaves and the like.
Conversely, a similar arrangement would seem out of place in richly decorated or ostentatiously modern rooms.
For modern interiors, we select rather shapely interesting plants and not overly dense bouquets; often a single unusual flower in a narrow tall vase works brilliantly (anthurium, orchid, gladiolus, tillandsia, lisianthus, amaryllis).
For decorative apartments with historic massive furniture, we'll choose rather heavier, richer arrangements of traditional flowers, for example hydrangeas, lilies, gladioli, peonies, roses, lisianthus.
Size is also important.
In a large hall or entrance lobby, a small arrangement will get lost, better than several small ones is one large one, positioned so it's clearly visible from the entrance.
On the other hand, in smaller spaces don't let yourself be overwhelmed by flowers; their purpose is to complement the room, not grab all the attention.
The most common way of arranging flowers is tying them into a bouquet. However, we don't have to stick with this method - flowering plants can be freely inserted into containers, pinned into floral foam, using various fixation techniques and aids.
Complex stem and branch fixation techniques are particularly known in ikebana, the Japanese art of flower arranging, where spiked bases, pebbles, sand and complex fixations using twigs inside vases are used to achieve the final effect.
In this article, we will focus mainly on the most common discipline - flower bouquet arrangement.
Choosing Flowers
As we have already mentioned, one of the criteria for selecting flowers is the type of arrangement and consequently the space where it will be placed. Other important elements are naturally the colour of the flowers and their texture.
Last but not least, we must also pay attention to the condition of the plants - flowers that are too far in bloom, dried leaves and flowers with drooping heads are definitely not suitable because they won't last long.
We must also work with consideration for the temperature conditions of the environment where the bouquet will be placed, as well as the possibility of temperature shocks and lack of watering, for example during transport.
During longer transport with insufficient moisture, species with firm, woody stems, such as hydrangea or rose, will hold up best.
Cooler rooms particularly require spring bulbs and generally flowers that bloom in spring, as they fade very quickly in warmth.
On the contrary, meadow flowers or lilacs wilt immediately without water.
Colour
Apart from being able to choose colours according to our favourites or according to the colour scheme of a room, there are principles for combining individual colours in a bouquet.
If the arrangement is not monochrome, it is necessary to find the right colour balance.
The basic principle is contrast - contrasting colours emphasise each other the most. On the colour wheel, the strongest colour contrasts are positioned opposite each other - purple and yellow, pink and green, purple and blue.
However, contrasts used too strongly appear tasteless, so they need to be softened by adding other neutral colours that unify the composition.
This can be, for example, cream, green, grey or white. A strong contrast is also created by white with darker colours and black with light ones.
Subtle contrasts can also be created simply by using different shades of one colour.
We shouldn't overdo the number of colours in an arrangement - for variety, it's better to use perhaps another shade of one of the colours or a different texture.
For a start, it's better to make do with three to five types of flowers - two or three can have contrasting colours and another one or two unifying ones.
By texture we primarily mean the size and quantity of flowers. Arrangements made only of large flowers (roses, peonies, sunflowers, gerberas...) appear heavy and monotonous.
When using only small flowers, nothing really catches the attention.
If we want to enliven the bouquet, it's advisable to use different sizes - larger flowers (usually a stem with a single large flower or inflorescence), medium flowers (they tend to be smaller, sometimes having multiple flowers on a stem.
Some carnations, chrysanthemums, calendula...) and supplementary flowers and greenery, which can perfectly complement the arrangement and add that "something" that's missing (small white chrysanthemums and santinis, baby's breath, statice, hydrangea, leaves...).
Besides flowers, we can also enliven the bouquet by adding fruits and berries, or various interesting objects, dried fruits, skeletonized leaves and similar items.
Basic Binding Techniques
Bouquets can be created using several methods - by inserting flowers directly into a vase, using a construction, pinning, or classic binding, usually in a spiral.
Before starting to arrange or bind, always prepare everything in advance - remove leaves from stems (about 2/3 of the height, and possibly remove flowers too - don't regret them, they would really interfere with binding), sort the types and sizes of plants, prepare a sharp knife, string and any other materials - construction, vase with fixation material, etc.
Inserting into a vase is the simplest method, suitable wherever the bouquet doesn't need to be removed from the container. For easier creation, we can use fixation materials in the vase (if it's not transparent) - there are special substances and gels that look aesthetic even in transparent containers (colored gels, etc.).
However, ordinary perlite works excellently too, into which we stick the flowers; sand can also be used (though it's very heavy and some flowers won't tolerate it).
An excellent solution is to place an ordinary mesh or piece of wire netting under the neck of the container - this way you can insert flowers through the openings and the bouquet holds its shape beautifully.
Pinning is a relatively old method of easy arranging, which additionally doesn't require flowers to have long stems.
We place water-soaked floral foam into the container (sand or moss were also used in the past), into which we pin shortened cut flower stems.
In the result, the floral foam and any dish underneath shouldn't be visible, although today colored decorative floral foams are available, which can be left largely exposed and thus shape the appearance of the arrangement.
Working with floral foam is simple, the results are striking, and flowers stay fresh for a very long time, because they are constantly supplied with water and the stems are short (the longer the stem, the worse the plant absorbs water).
The most commonly used floral foams are from Oasis, which offers a wide assortment - besides ordinary foam blocks, they also produce various shapes, placed in plastic containers for water refilling, holders for pinning hand-held bouquets, and those equipped with suction cups for attachment to smooth surfaces.
When soaking floral foam, it's necessary to place it on the water surface and let it absorb water on its own and sink to the bottom. Don't try to push it under the surface or hold it under running water - if the foam absorbs water from different directions, air pockets remain trapped inside.
This limits the amount of water for plants, increases the fragility of the foam, and stems that we push through to these dry spots wilt. If the foam absorbs water only from one direction, usually from below, all air is pushed out on the other side.
Roll the ends together.
Using a support structure not only makes binding easier, it can also become an effective addition to the entire bouquet.
Try binding cut twigs into a triangular or otherwise angular grid, attach wires at three points that will lead to the binding point (the place where the bouquet is held and is narrowest).
You can easily insert flowers into the resulting simple grid. The structure should be visible at the edges of the bouquet, completing the final effect.
One or more firmly connected flowers create a beautiful base into which we can easily insert flowers.
As a structure, we can use, for example, hydrangea, either inserted into another structure or without it.
Instead of twigs, you can use anything that comes to mind - twist vines or shoots (for example, hops with cones look great, or wild clematis that has finished flowering in autumn), use various wires and technical materials (suitable for modern arrangements), or anything else that is sufficiently strong, can be connected, and looks interesting.
Classic binding requires a bit of practice. Sometimes stems are tied only longitudinally to each other - especially when dealing with bare straight stems with narrow flowers, this is typical for calla lilies (zantedeschia).
However, this is not a very suitable binding for a vase. Here we usually want a round or otherwise oval bouquet that is not "squeezed" together, but nicely spread out.
This can be achieved through so-called spiral binding.
It's good to try this binding first, perhaps with toothpicks or sticks. Cross two toothpicks (stems) at approximately 2/3 - the shorter ends are at the top (when working with flowers, these are the leafy parts of the stems bearing flowers).
Place the third toothpick (stem) so that it forms a wide tripod.
Then we keep adding toothpicks (stems) to the last one, always in the direction of the spiral. Hold the binding at the crossing point with one hand, and add with the other.
At first, the toothpicks will probably start to spread out and stick together in various ways, but it just takes a little practice. When creating a spiral bouquet, we also add supplementary flowers and greenery during the creation process.
A critical moment is when we want to tie the flowers - until this moment, a beautifully round bouquet can collapse under the tension of the string or ribbon into a crowded shape.
This means we either tied too wide a section of stems, or we added stems at too little of an angle. When tying, keep in mind that while the bouquet must hold firmly, we don't want to strangle the stems and thereby limit the water supply to the flowers.
A correctly tied bouquet should have such stability after trimming the stems that it will stand on its own on a flat surface.
A few words about aesthetics
We can create bouquets symmetrically (e.g., with concentric circles of different colours) or with scattered elements - these look more natural and there is no immediately apparent system.
When creating such a bouquet, don't place the largest or most striking flower in the centre. In the bouquet, use groups of flowers of the same type together rather than isolated flowers.
If you're not creating a strictly round bouquet but venturing into multiple tiers, you need to pay attention to the centre of gravity of the composition. Simply put, optically heavy elements (large, brightly coloured and fully opened flowers) should be as close as possible to the centre of gravity, in our case most often near the neck of the vase.
The further you move away from this centre of gravity, the more delicate flowers you should use - lighter, less developed, smaller. At the edge of the bouquet, only buds, greenery and delicate, supplementary flowers should appear (forget-me-nots, baby's breath).
A vase is not just a water container
When choosing a vase, we will probably be limited to what we can find at home. Even so, there are several rules that will help us emphasize the beauty of flowers with the right container.
Each vase can hold a different amount of flowers. And this is not only determined by how many we manage to stuff into it.
It depends on how stable the vase or container appears to us visually.
For example, glass and other transparent containers have a significantly different effect than a vase of exactly the same shape, but made of opaque material, such as ceramics.
In a transparent vase, we should place a smaller amount of flowers and avoid visually heavy, ornate arrangements - glass favours moderation and elegance.
In opaque containers, we can place richer and larger arrangements - the darker the colour, rougher the surface and wider the container, the more flowers it can hold without appearing unbalanced.
When selecting the size of a vase, we also take into account one of the basic rules of aesthetics - the golden ratio.
According to it, the eye is pleased by a certain ratio of sizes, specifically the number 1.618; for arrangement purposes, a ratio of 3:5 is used.
This is not just an invention of arrangers or modern times, the golden ratio occurs all around us, in nature, architecture, in the human body and elsewhere.
Faces rated as most beautiful meet the conditions of the golden ratio.
When people are asked to choose the most appealing rectangle from an offer, the vast majority will choose one with a 3:5 aspect ratio.
Do you like the size of your credit card? If it were a centimetre longer or wider, it wouldn't be quite right, would it? Try measuring it...
This pleasing ratio is significant in all fields that are meant to bring pleasure to the eye, including arrangement. When choosing a vase, therefore, the vase should be to the bouquet in a ratio of approximately 3:5, or vice versa, 5:3.
This usually mainly concerns the height of the arrangement. The ratio changes slightly depending on the optical weight of both the vase and the bouquet.
How to Keep Cut Flowers Beautiful
We all want to enjoy every bouquet for as long as possible. But how can you keep flowers looking fresh even after several days?
First of all, when creating arrangements, it's important to choose fresh flowers that aren't overblown and preferably have the longest possible vase life. Some species are known for their longevity - for example, carnations, chrysanthemums, orchids or lilies.
Before arranging, let the flowers absorb as much water as possible - leave them overnight in a basin or bathtub lying in water. Plants absorb water through their entire surface better than through cut stems.
This is also useful if you're transporting a bouquet without water or if you've received flowers from someone - let them have a good drink after the stressful transport, and they'll reward you.
For some flowers, it's not advisable to submerge the blooms (sunflowers, tulips, gerberas), but generally this procedure is very successful, for example even for popular roses.
Flower stems should be cut with a long diagonal cut using a sharp knife. This needs to be done before placing the plants in water and then approximately every second or third day to prevent blockage of water supply to the flower.
When cutting stems, submerge the cut end in water and cut underneath it - this prevents air from entering the stem, which can block the vessels.
Another thing that affects the longevity of flowers is cleanliness - the vase must be perfectly clean, and when washing it, it's good to disinfect it a bit (for example with bleach, detergent...).
We must change the water frequently to prevent bacteria and algae from multiplying, which among other things also cause an unpleasant odor.
Flowers usually last longer in a cooler room, some (especially spring flowers) directly require cold. However, if you want to enjoy the beauty of flowers in warm living spaces, it's better to at least avoid direct heat sources, such as radiators, stoves, cookers or proximity to light bulbs.
If your gerbera flower starts to droop, place the end of the stem in boiling water for a few minutes - the gerbera will straighten up. Don't forget to cut the stem again afterwards for water intake.
Roses benefit from a similar trick - cut the end of the stem generously (cut about 6-7 cm), place the flower in a vase and fill it with boiling water. Leave the flower in this water.
Although it may seem drastic, it really works - drooping heads and wilted leaves will lift and brighten even if the flowers are quite wilted.
We don't need to cut the stem right away, even when it turns brown. We can repeat the procedure every time there are signs of wilting. It also helps if you pour water at 50-60°C into the vase when changing the water for roses.
Remove wilted flowers uncompromisingly at the first signs of wilting. Firstly, they bring melancholy into an otherwise lively, joyful composition, and secondly, fading flowers often produce ethylene, a gas that accelerates the fading of surrounding flowers. This gas is also released by many fruits - especially apples and bananas.
Therefore, don't place fruit near flowers.
Similarly, some plants simply "don't get along." These are especially hyacinths, lily of the valley and daffodils, which release substances into the water that significantly accelerate the wilting of other flowers.
For transport lasting longer than an hour, always use some water source.
Spurge plants (those that secrete milky sap) should be treated with hot water before arranging - briefly immerse the ends of the stems in it.
For plants to last long, they need appropriate nutrition besides water. The simplest way is to buy a sachet of nutrition for cut flowers at a florist for a few crowns.
Mix the powder in water and place the flowers in it. The nutrition also contains disinfectant substances, thanks to which we don't need to change the water as often, usually after 5-7 days.
And finally, a few old wives' tips you can try:
- a piece of charcoal or a clove of garlic will keep the water fresh for a long time
- black or green tea can serve as nutrition for plants - simply place a used tea bag in the water in the vase
- for roses, dahlias and chrysanthemums, prepare water with a crushed and dissolved aspirin tablet
- sugar is good for tulips, lilac, irises and asters
- conversely, a pinch of salt in the water is excellent for camellias, daffodils and carnations
- hot water will revive roses and gerberas
And remember that although there are many rules, guidelines and principles, the most important thing is that arranging brings you joy. So let your imagination run wild and enjoy working with flowers, which is one of the most beautiful activities!
Tools for creating tied and pinned bouquets, as well as decorative materials, can be purchased in our e-shop.
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