Gaura: a perennial that flowers until the frosts, as long as its roots do not get wet

In short: Gaura (Gaura lindheimeri, now Oenothera lindheimeri) is a drought-loving perennial that flowers from June until the frosts. It wants full sun and very well-drained soil, and rots in a wet winter. It has a deep taproot, so it does not tolerate transplanting. From seed sown in February it flowers already in the first year.

Gaura is a plant that makes people stop at nurseries. On thin, slightly arching stems it carries hundreds of tiny white or pink flowers that tremble in the wind like a flock of butterflies. That is why in English it is called "whirling butterflies". It flowers continuously all summer and brings a lightness to the bed that heavy perennials lack.

Anyone can grow it, but fewer people manage to keep it for several years. What decides it is mainly the place and the soil. Here is what gaura needs, how to sow it and what to do so that it survives winter.

What gaura is and how it differs from other perennials

Gaura comes from the prairies of Texas and Louisiana. In 2007 botanists moved it to the evening primrose genus, so its correct name is Oenothera lindheimeri, but in garden centres it is still sold as gaura. It forms a loose bush of basal leaves from which long flower stems grow.

• It flowers for a long time, from June until the first frosts, with new flowers gradually opening on the stems.
• It tolerates drought and heat thanks to its deep taproot. It suits gravel beds, a south-facing wall and containers on a sunny balcony.
• It attracts pollinators, mainly bumblebees, honeybees and butterflies.
• It is often short-lived. On heavier soil it often lasts only a few years. Allow for that and let it self-seed, or grow new plants every spring.

Position and soil: this is where overwintering is decided

Gaura needs full sun, at least 6 hours a day. In partial shade it stretches, flops and flowers little.

The soil must be well-drained. Sandy, sandy-loam or stony soil is ideal. On heavy clay, where water stands in winter, gaura reliably rots; frost kills it much less than wet. On heavy soil therefore plant in a raised bed, on a slope or in a container, or work coarse sand and grit into the planting hole. You do not need to feed it; on fertile soil it stretches and the stems flop.

For inspiration on what to combine gaura with, see the articles long-flowering perennials and ornamental perennials. Woodland sage, lavender, coneflowers and ornamental grasses go well with it.

Sowing gaura from seed

1. Timing: February to March on a windowsill or in a greenhouse. With an early sowing gaura flowers already in the first summer.
2. Compost: seed compost, well-drained. Cover the seeds with only a thin layer of about 2–3 mm.
3. Temperature: around 20 °C. The seeds usually emerge within 2–3 weeks, sometimes unevenly.
4. Pricking out: transplant seedlings with 2–4 true leaves individually into pots 8–9 cm in diameter. Because of the taproot this is the last transplanting at which the root can be handled safely.
5. Planting out: after mid-May, with the whole root ball and without disturbing the roots, at a distance of 40–60 cm.

General advice on germination is in the article seed germination. Seedlings from the seeds of cultivars do not have to have the same colour as the parent plant; white and pink types may differ.

Care during the season

• Watering: regularly after planting until it roots. An established gaura hardly needs watering; in a container water once the compost has dried out.
• Flopping: tall types flop open towards the end of summer. It helps to plant them among sturdier perennials, or to shorten the clump by about a third in July. The plant regrows and sets more flowers.
• Removing faded stems prolongs flowering and prevents excessive self-seeding.
• In a container: diameter at least 30 cm, compost with perlite or grit, large drainage holes.

Overwintering

Gaura tolerates frosts around −20 °C as long as its roots are dry. To help it survive:

1. Do not feed it any more in autumn and reduce watering.
2. Leave the dry stems standing over winter and cut them only in spring above the shooting leaves. They protect the centre of the clump.
3. Do not cover it with a layer of leaves, which holds moisture. In bare frosts loosely laid evergreen branches are enough.
4. Move plants in containers against a wall under a roof overhang so the rain does not fall on them, and wrap the container against freezing through.

More advice on preparing the garden for winter is summarised in the article important tips for preparing the garden for winter.

The most common mistakes with gaura

Aphids and rust appear only exceptionally. Deer usually leave gaura alone.

Frequently asked questions

Is gaura the same as "svíčkovec"?

Yes. "Svíčkovec" is the Czech name for Gaura lindheimeri, now listed as Oenothera lindheimeri. In sale listings it more often appears as gaura, but it is the same plant.

Is gaura a perennial?

Yes, but a short-lived one. On well-drained soil it lasts several years, on heavy and wet soil often only one or two winters. If you want to be sure, let it self-seed or grow a few plants every year.

When should I sow gaura?

In February to March on a windowsill at about 20 °C. It is planted out after mid-May and, with an early sowing, flowers in the same year.

How do I overwinter gaura?

The key is dry soil. Leave the stems until spring, do not cover it with leaves and protect plants in containers from rain under a roof overhang.

When should I cut gaura?

Remove faded stems as you go during summer, and shorten a flopping clump by a third in July. Cut the old dry stems only in spring, when new leaves shoot at ground level.

Does gaura tolerate shade?

It tolerates partial shade, but stretches and flowers little. It flowers best in full sun for at least 6 hours a day.

Can gaura be grown in a pot?

Yes, low varieties are popular for sunny balconies. The container should be at least 30 cm, with large drainage holes and a well-drained compost with perlite.

Recommended products

• Seed compost 5 l (suppressive) – for the February sowing; limits damping off of seedlings.
• MULTI cell tray 4 × 4 cm (48 pcs) – seedlings in cells are transplanted with their root ball, without damaging the taproot.
• Premium perlite Gramoflor, 100 l – for improving drainage in planting holes and compost for containers.
• TEKU round flower pot 33 cm, 18 l – a large enough container with drainage for gaura on a balcony.
• Xcellent garden shears, large – for shortening the clump in summer and tidying the stems in spring.

Sources

• NC State Extension: Oenothera lindheimeri
• Missouri Botanical Garden: Oenothera lindheimeri

Updated: 27 September 2026