Chinese silver grass: varieties, planting, spring cutting and dividing clumps

In short: Chinese silver grass is a hardy clump-forming grass that grows 1–2.5 m tall depending on the variety. It wants full sun and soil that does not sit wet in winter. Plant it in spring, do not cut it in autumn, and shorten the dry clumps to 10–15 cm only in March or April. In spring it shoots late, usually not until May.

Chinese silver grass forms dense clumps of narrow leaves, above which silvery to pinkish plumes rise in late summer. It looks good from June to March: in summer like a green fountain, in autumn it turns golden, and in winter it keeps its shape even under hoar frost. That is why it is among the most commonly planted ornamental grasses.

Care is simple, but there are two pitfalls: silver grass is planted and cut at different times than people expect, and older clumps gradually die out in the middle. Both have an easy solution. For an overview of other grasses and how to combine them, see the article ornamental grasses – a decoration for the modern garden; here we go into detail on silver grass only.

Varieties by height and purpose

According to botany.cz, the botanical species grows 80–200 cm tall, exceptionally more. In gardens, however, it is mainly cultivars that are grown, and they differ in height, leaf width and flowering time. Heights are approximate, including the plumes at flowering time.

Botany.cz lists the striped "zebra" silver grass under the name Miscanthus zebrinus and classes it with Chinese silver grass; in garden centres you will find it as Miscanthus sinensis 'Zebrinus'. Giant miscanthus, Miscanthus × giganteus, is a different hybrid, grows up to 3 m and is better suited as a screen.

Where it thrives

The RHS rates Chinese silver grass as fully hardy for all of northern Europe (H6, down to −15 to −20 °C), and it tolerates Czech winters without protection. It does need full sun, however. In partial shade it grows more sparsely, the clumps flop open and the plumes may not appear at all.

It is tolerant of soil and copes with sand, loam and heavier clay. The only real threat is winter waterlogging, when the clump rots from the centre. In clay soil, therefore, plant on a slightly raised spot or add coarse sand to the planting hole. It tolerates short dry spells, but looks its best in soil that does not dry out completely in summer.

Planting: spring, not autumn

Silver grass is a "warmth-loving" grass. It grows only in warm soil and roots in summer. Autumn planting is therefore risky, as the plant does not have time to root before winter. Plant from April to June, once the soil has warmed up.

1. Choose a sunny spot and allow for the final width of the clump, 1–1.5 m for taller varieties.
2. Dig a hole twice as wide as the root ball and remove the roots of perennial weeds.
3. Mix coarse sand or fine gravel into heavy soil, and a little compost into sandy soil.
4. Soak the root ball, plant it at the same depth as it was in the pot and firm it in.
5. Water generously. In the first summer water once a week in dry weather, after that mostly only during long dry periods.

Spacing: low varieties 60–80 cm, tall ones 80–120 cm. It needs little feeding. A handful of compost or general-purpose fertiliser around the clump in spring is enough; an overfed clump flops open.

Why it looks "dead" in spring

In April, when everything is turning green, silver grass still stands there like brown stubble. That is normal. It is a grass of warm climates that starts to grow only once the soil has warmed up, usually in May. Wait until the end of May before declaring a clump dead. Young shoots will then appear at ground level in the middle of the clump.

Cutting back: only in spring

Do not cut silver grass in autumn. The dry leaves and plumes protect the centre of the clump from wet and frost, give the garden structure in winter and, according to the RHS, offer seeds to birds and shelter to insects. We recommend the same in the article important tips for preparing the garden for winter.

1. Cut from mid-March to April, before the new shoots grow tall.
2. Put on thick gloves and safety glasses. The leaf edges are sharp and cut.
3. Tie a large clump into a bundle with string first, so it does not fall apart.
4. Cut the stems 10–15 cm above the ground. Tough stems are best cut with long-handled shears or hedge shears.
5. If green shoots are already coming up, cut above them so you do not damage them.
6. Chop the cut material and put it on the compost or use it as mulch.

Old clump empty in the middle: dividing

After five to ten years the centre of the clump often goes bare and living shoots grow only around the edge. Such a clump needs to be divided. Divide it in spring when it starts to grow, ideally at the same time as cutting back.

Dig the clump out with a spade; with large specimens this is a job for two people. Throw away the dead centre and split the healthy outer parts with a spade, axe or saw into pieces with several shoots and enough roots. Replant the pieces in the same place or elsewhere and water them regularly in the first summer.

Silver grass in a container

Only lower varieties up to 1.5 m suit a container, for example 'Adagio' or 'Morning Light'. Allow for a container of at least 30–40 litres, with drainage and a heavy base so the wind does not knock it over. The compost in a container freezes through completely, so wrap it for winter and stand it against the wall of the house. A container dries out faster than a bed; in summer water even daily.

Does silver grass spread by seed?

It can. Botany.cz states that Chinese silver grass has become naturalised in many parts of the world, in Europe and America. Here, most late-flowering varieties do not spread by seed, because the seeds do not have time to ripen. With early-flowering varieties seedlings occasionally appear. If you see them nearby, pull them out and cut off the plumes before they break up in spring. Near a forest, stream or open countryside, give preference to late-flowering varieties.

Silver grass combines well with autumn perennials such as asters, sedums or Japanese anemone. For more tips on perennials that last for years in one place, see the article ornamental perennials – plant once, enjoy for years.

Frequently asked questions

When should I cut Chinese silver grass?

In spring, from mid-March to April, to a height of 10–15 cm above the ground. In autumn leave the dry leaves; they protect the centre of the clump from wet and cold.

How tall is Chinese silver grass?

It depends on the variety. Low varieties such as 'Adagio' are around 1 m, common ones 1.5–2 m and the tallest with plumes over 2 m. Giant miscanthus, Miscanthus × giganteus, is a different hybrid and grows up to 3 m.

Why is my silver grass not growing in spring?

It shoots late, only in warm soil, usually in May. If no green shoots appear by the end of May, the clump may have rotted in the winter wet.

When should I plant silver grass?

In spring, from April to June. Autumn planting is risky because the plant does not have time to root before winter.

Is silver grass invasive?

In some parts of the world it has become naturalised. Here, late-flowering varieties practically do not spread by seed. With early-flowering varieties, watch for seedlings and cut off the plumes before they break up.

Recommended products

We do not currently have silver grass plants or seeds on offer. The following are suitable for spring cutting and care:

• SingleStep hedge shears FISKARS – long handles for the spring cut of a whole clump.
• Grass shears FISKARS – for tidying the edges and smaller clumps.
• BIOPON general-purpose fertiliser 1 kg – a single spring dose around the clump is enough.

Sources

• Miscanthus sinensis: hardiness H6, position, cutting back (Royal Horticultural Society)
• Ornamental grasses: cutting back (Royal Horticultural Society)
• Chinese silver grass, Miscanthus sinensis (botany.cz)

Updated: 27 September 2026