Camellia: care in a container, overwintering and why the buds drop

A month-by-month camellia calendar, the main causes of bud drop, substrate and repotting, feeding and overwintering in a container in Czech conditions.

In brief: Camellia needs an acid substrate, soft water and constant moisture in summer, because that is when it sets its buds. Feed it from spring to the end of July. In the Czech Republic grow it mainly in a container and overwinter it in a bright cool room. Buds most often drop after summer drought or in warmth.

Latin name	Camellia japonica, Theaceae
Flowering	C. japonica late winter to spring, C. sasanqua autumn to winter
Substrate	acid, pH below 7, ideally around 5.5–6.5
Bud formation	June to August, the substrate must not dry out
Feeding	spring to the end of July
Overwintering in a container	light, roughly 5–12 °C, without big swings

Camellia is an evergreen shrub with glossy stiff leaves and flowers that resemble roses or peonies. It flowers when it is grey outside, which is why people buy it mainly at the end of winter. It has a reputation as a demanding plant for one reason only: it does not tolerate sudden changes and reacts to every mistake by dropping buds, often only several months later.

Once you understand its calendar, the care is surprisingly simple. Camellia does its most important work in summer, when nobody trips over it, and in winter it only "collects" what it has prepared.

Three camellias, three calendars

In shops you will meet mainly three groups. They differ in flowering time and hardiness, and therefore in where and how they overwinter.

	Camellia japonica	Camellia × williamsii	Camellia sasanqua
when it flowers	late winter to spring	late winter to spring	autumn to early winter
flowers	large, single and double	medium-sized, the flowers drop by themselves	smaller, often fragrant
hardiness according to the RHS	H5, tolerates roughly −10 to −15 °C	H5	H4, more tender
position	partial shade	partial shade	tolerates more sun

The hardiness ratings come from Britain, where winters are damper and shorter. In the Czech Republic camellia is grown outdoors in the ground only exceptionally, in the warmest areas and in a sheltered spot. For most gardeners a container that can be put away for winter is more sensible.

A year with a camellia, month by month

Period	What is happening	What to do
January–April	flowering (C. japonica)	light, cool, constant moderate moisture, do not move
after flowering	new growth	any pruning, repotting, start feeding
May	the plant goes outdoors	after the last frosts into partial shade, gradually accustom to sun
June–August	bud formation	regular watering, feed until the end of July
September–October	buds ripen	leave outdoors until harder frost threatens
November–December	transition to winter	move to a bright cool room

The end of September is a quiet period for camellia. The buds are set, the plant stays outdoors and light morning chill around zero does not bother it; if anything it helps. Move it to winter quarters only before harder frosts.

Why camellia buds drop

Bud drop is the most common question. The cause is usually several weeks to months older than the drop itself.

Summer drought. According to the RHS, a skipped watering in summer is the main cause of bud drop the following winter and spring. It is enough for the root ball to dry out completely once or twice.
Feeding at the end of summer. Fertiliser after July also provokes drop. Give the last dose by the end of July.
Warmth in winter. In a living room at 20 °C with dry air the buds shrivel and fall. Camellia wants cool in winter.
Swings and moving. A sudden change of temperature, light or turning the container while buds are being set stresses the plant.
Morning sun after a frosty night. Frozen buds that the morning sun shines on thaw too fast and turn brown. The RHS therefore recommends a spot sheltered from morning sun.
Hard water. Calcium raises the pH, the leaves fade and the plant weakens.

A few fallen buds are normal; the shrub thins itself out. The problem is when most drop.

Substrate, water and repotting

Camellia is among the acid-loving plants, like rhododendrons and azaleas. According to the RHS a simple rule applies: where rhododendrons do well, camellia does too. For a container use a substrate for ericaceous plants and for better drainage mix in about a fifth of perlite. What the individual components of a substrate do is clearly summarised in the guide to substrates.

Water with rainwater or settled soft water. The substrate should be constantly slightly moist, never wet. In summer check moisture with a finger a few centimetres below the surface; the surface is deceptive. How soil reaction affects nutrient uptake is explained in the article soil pH.

Repotting step by step

Repot after flowering, roughly once every two to three years, when roots grow through the bottom.
Choose a container 3–5 cm wider than the current one, with a drainage hole.
Put a drainage layer and a little acid substrate at the bottom.
Remove the ball, gently loosen the roots around the edge and set it at the same height as before. Do not cover the root collar.
Top up with substrate, press down lightly and water with soft water.
Do not feed for two to three weeks and keep the plant in shade.

The general method and the most common mistakes in repotting are summarised in the article repotting houseplants.

Feeding and pruning

A camellia in a container needs a fertiliser for acid-loving plants from spring, when it starts to grow, until the end of July. Dose rather less than the packaging states; camellia grows slowly and tolerates overfeeding worse than hunger. Yellowing leaves with green veins usually mean limy water or a high pH, not a lack of fertiliser.

It usually needs no pruning. If you want to make the shrub bushier or smaller, prune right after flowering, before it starts setting buds. Hard rejuvenation is possible in March, but the plant then flowers weakly for several years.

Overwintering in a container

The ideal winter spot is bright, cool and without big swings in temperature: an unheated hallway, a conservatory, a bright staircase, a cool bedroom. A temperature of roughly 5–12 °C suits both Japanese and williamsii camellias. A camellia does not stop growing in winter like a deciduous shrub, so it needs light and occasional watering.

Move it once, at the start of winter, and then leave it in place. Camellias dislike turning the container towards the light during flowering. You can find further advice for overwintering container plants in the article overwintering houseplants.

Tea plant and oil camellia: relatives

The genus Camellia also has useful species. The tea plant (Camellia sinensis) gives tea and is grown much like ornamental camellias. From the seeds of oil camellia (Camellia oleifera) camellia oil is pressed, used in cosmetics for skin and hair, externally and according to the manufacturer's instructions.

Camellia is not among the poisonous plants. The ASPCA lists Camellia japonica as non-toxic to dogs, cats and horses, so you can keep it at home with animals. Even so, leaves are not feed, and a larger amount may cause digestive upset.

Frequently asked questions

Why are my camellia buds dropping?

Most often because of drought in summer, when the buds are set, or because of warmth and dry air in winter. Feeding after July and moving the plant while buds are being set also provoke drop.

Where should I overwinter camellia?

In a bright cool room at roughly 5–12 °C, for example in an unheated hallway or a conservatory. In a warm living room it usually drops its buds.

Can camellia grow outdoors in the garden?

Japanese and williamsii camellias are fairly frost-hardy, but in the Czech Republic planting in the ground is risky and suits only the warmest areas in a sheltered spot without morning sun. A container that you put away for winter is safer.

What water should I use for camellia?

Rainwater or settled soft water. Hard water with calcium gradually raises the pH of the substrate and the leaves then turn yellow.

Is camellia poisonous to cats?

According to the ASPCA, Camellia japonica is not poisonous to dogs, cats or horses. Chewing the leaves still harms the plant and in larger amounts can cause an animal digestive upset.

Sources

Updated: 27 September 2026

Author: Jana Vránová, the editorial name of the Pěstík.cz team. She writes about the garden, herbs and essential oils. We take safety and dosage information from specialist literature and official sources, which we cite in every article.