Tulips: when to plant the bulbs, choosing groups and how to make them flower a second year

In brief: Tulips are planted last of the spring bulbs, from October to November, to a depth of two to three times the height of the bulb (usually 10–15 cm, deeper in cold locations). Later planting limits tulip fire. Large-flowered varieties often do not flower in the second year; Darwin hybrids and species tulips return more reliably.

The tulip is the most colourful spring bulb: from tiny species tulips for a rock garden through classic single goblets to fringed, parrot and double varieties as big as a peony. Growing it is simple, but it differs from the daffodil in two ways. It is planted later, and large-flowered varieties do not behave like perennials.

If you are mainly interested in "when and how deep", you will find it right in the first section. Further we deal with choosing groups, Rembrandt tulips, planting in containers and how to achieve tulips flowering a second year as well.

Why plant tulips only after daffodils

The best planting time for tulips is October and November. If you plant them in a warm September, they root quickly, sometimes even sprout, and above all they are exposed to tulip fire. This fungal disease spreads in warmth and damp and has worse conditions in cold soil. That is why you plant tulips last, after snowdrops, crocuses and daffodils. The order of planting and the general rules are summarised in the article autumn planting of bulbs.

The upper limit is frozen ground. In a mild autumn you can plant even at the beginning of December. Store bulbs waiting to be planted in a cool, dry place in an airy bag, not in plastic and not in the kitchen.

The depth depends on the size of the bulb: two to three times its height, for ordinary bulbs 10–15 cm. In cold locations and on light sandy soil plant deeper; the bulbs are better protected from frost. Deeper planting, around 20 cm, also helps the bulbs not to divide into small ones and the tulips to flower for several years.

Tulip groups: what to expect from each

Tulips are divided into 15 groups by flower shape, flowering time and origin. Catalogues give them for each variety, and they help you plan a bed that flowers for six weeks instead of one.

For containers and exposed places by the entrance, lower early tulips that the wind will not break are suitable. For a lawn and a rock garden plant species tulips. A combination with other bulbs is shown in the article bulbs and tuberous plants.

Rembrandt tulips: stripes that a virus once made

Streaked and flamed tulips triggered tulip mania in the Netherlands in the 17th century. Their stripes were then caused by the tulip breaking virus, which is carried by aphids. Infected bulbs gradually weakened and the virus also spread to healthy tulips.

Today, stable varieties sold as Rembrandt tulips have their streaking determined genetically, not by a virus. They are safe for other tulips in the bed and the stripes repeat every year. They suit a vase and a bed, where they stand out in contrast with plain-coloured tulips or with a blue underlayer.

Planting in a bed and in a container

1. Choose a sunny place with free-draining soil. Tulips do not tolerate standing water; in waterlogged soil the bulbs rot over winter.
2. Inspect the bulbs. Discard soft ones, ones with mould or with tiny black dots in the skin, which may be the beginnings of tulip fire. A fallen brown skin does not matter.
3. Loosen the soil and in heavy clay mix in coarse sand. Compost yes, fresh manure no.
4. Lay the bulbs tip upwards to a depth of 10–15 cm, in odd-numbered groups of 7–15, at least two bulb widths apart.
5. Cover, press down and water.
6. In a container use substrate mixed with coarse sand or fine gravel in a ratio of roughly 3 : 1, put drainage at the bottom and place the bulbs about a finger apart. Leave the container outdoors in a sheltered spot over winter.

In one container you can add a layer of daffodils above the tulips and crocuses or grape hyacinths on top. Tulips always go deepest, as they flower last.

Annual or perennial? Getting tulips to flower a second year

Large-flowered garden tulips often flower best in the first spring. In the second year they send up only a leaf or a small flower, because the bulb breaks up into several small ones. In public planting they are therefore planted as a seasonal flower and new ones are bought every autumn. If you want them to return, the following helps:

• Choose Darwin hybrids, Kaufmanniana, Greigii and species tulips.
• Plant deeper, around 20 cm, in a sunny, free-draining place where the soil is dry in summer.
• After flowering snap off the seed head and leave the leaves until they turn yellow, roughly 6 weeks.
• From sprouting until the leaves yellow, feed with a fertiliser with a higher potassium content, such as is used for tomatoes.
• For valuable varieties: after the leaves turn yellow, lift the bulbs, clean them, leave them to dry and store them over summer dry and warm at around 18–20 °C in a net or paper bag. Plant them again in autumn.

Plant stored bulbs rather in less visible places. For a place of honour by the entrance buy new ones; the largest bulbs give the surest flower.

Tulip fire, voles and other troubles

Tulip fire is recognised by twisted leaves with brown spots that look scorched, and in damp weather by a grey mouldy coating. Remove affected plants together with the bulb at once and do not put them on the compost. The fungus forms black resting bodies in the soil, so do not plant tulips in the same place for at least 3 years. Late planting and sufficient spacing help, so that air circulates between the plants.

Voles and mice love tulip bulbs. Plant them in bulb baskets or in wire mesh with a mesh size of around 1 cm, or combine them with daffodils, which rodents avoid. How to tell a vole from a mole is explained in the article mole and water vole.

Short stems or withered buds are usually the result of drought in spring or too warm a winter in a container. In a dry April water the tulips, and in a warm winter move the containers into the shade.

Tulips and safety

Tulips contain tulipalins, substances that irritate the skin. Anyone who plants or cuts tulips in large quantities may get an itchy skin inflammation on the fingers. So wear gloves when planting. After eating, tulips cause vomiting and diarrhoea. They are poisonous to dogs, cats and horses, the bulb contains the most poison, and animals most often dig it up from a freshly planted bed or find it in a bag. If you suspect an animal has been poisoned, call a vet; for a child, the Toxicological Information Centre on 224 919 293 or 224 915 402.

Frequently asked questions

When should I plant tulips?

In October and November, in a mild autumn also at the beginning of December, as long as the soil is not frozen. Planting too early in a warm September increases the risk of tulip fire.

How deep should I plant tulips?

To a depth of two to three times the height of the bulb, usually 10–15 cm. In cold locations and on light soil deeper, for flowering over several years around 20 cm.

Why do tulips not flower in the second year?

Large-flowered varieties divide after the first year into small bulbs that do not flower. Deeper planting, leaving the leaves until they yellow, feeding with potassium and choosing Darwin hybrids or species tulips help.

Do tulips have to be dug up after flowering?

They do not have to be. Lifting and summer storage dry and warm, however, improves flowering in later years, especially in large-flowered varieties. Leave species tulips in the ground.

Are tulips poisonous to cats and dogs?

Yes. The bulb contains the most poison. After eating it, vomiting, diarrhoea, drooling and lethargy appear. Contact a vet.

Why do tulips in a vase keep growing and bending?

Tulips keep growing even after cutting and the stems turn towards the light. Cut them in bud, put them in cold water and turn the container. You can find more advice in the article how to keep plants beautiful in a vase for a long time.

Recommended products

• Rembrandt tulip, mix of 5 pcs – stable streaked varieties without a virus, bulbs in stock for October and November planting.
• Bulb basket, 26 cm diameter – protects the bulbs from voles and makes lifting for summer easy.
• Double garden daffodil, mix of 5 pcs – for the neighbourhood of tulips; rodents do not eat their poisonous bulbs.
• Planting trowel – for holes 10–20 cm deep, also in containers.

Sources

• Royal Horticultural Society: How to grow tulips
• Royal Horticultural Society: Tulip fire
• ASPCA Animal Poison Control: Tulip
• Toxicological Information Centre, General University Hospital in Prague

Updated: 27 September 2026