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Seasonal and Special Tools
Autumn tends to be a very hectic period for gardeners. There are many things that need to be done in the garden before winter arrives. This includes winterizing plants, soil, tools, and the greenhouse. Autumn is also primarily the harvest time for fruit trees, but this period is also suitable for planting them.
Most gardeners and owners of gardens or cottages grow fruit trees. This is partly from an aesthetic point of view, but increasingly it's a matter of current trends.
Growing organic fruit - fruit that is not chemically or otherwise treated and is fresh - is becoming an ever-greater desire of today's gardeners and growers.
Autumn is precisely the most suitable time for planting fruit trees as well. This is mainly due to the cooler period when plants are in a state of vegetative dormancy.
In this article you will learn: About autumn planting, how to care for trees
The soil is not yet frozen too deeply, which creates ideal conditions for the plant to take root. However, you don't need to despair if you don't manage it now in autumn - you can catch up early in spring.
Autumn planting has certain advantages over spring planting. One of them is the fact that the plant utilizes moisture from snow in winter and begins to regenerate immediately in spring. Trees planted in autumn also often establish themselves better than those planted in spring.
The only exception is peach trees, which are generally recommended to be planted in spring, so that winter doesn't damage them.
Root system
Before planting, it's necessary to check the condition of the plant's roots. It's important to shorten the roots with a sharp knife or double-edged scissors. All cuts should be smooth and perpendicular to the root axis.
Damaged or diseased roots must be cut off, always ensuring that the underground and above-ground parts of the plant are in balance. Undamaged root tissue can be recognized by its white color, whereas damaged tissue is brown or even black. Excessively long or very weak roots also need to be shortened.
Planting
First of all, we should prepare a bucket of quality compost, which is used as a base for the bottom part of the dug planting hole. This should be at least 0.5 m deep and wide according to the size of the plant being planted.
When digging the hole, it's always better to separate the upper part of the soil from the lower part. These differ in composition in individual layers. Roughly the first 20 cm of soil is usually the most aerated, therefore it's very high quality. It's advisable to mix horticultural substrate or compost into this layer. Plants will also certainly benefit from the addition of slow-release organic fertilizer.
Artificial fertilizers and lime do not belong in the hole. Such mistakes then lead to the tree dying.
Planting Process
It is also recommended to pour 2 buckets of water into the hole and then line the bottom with the topsoil layer. Then you can place the plant into the hole and start filling its root ball with the soil you obtained while digging the hole.
However, first use the soil from the upper part, that is the one with added substrate or compost.
Moreover, do not place any additional fertilizers in the hole and definitely not lime. This is a common mistake among gardeners and leads to nothing other than the death of the tree. Also avoid artificial fertilizers on the planting surface.
It is also important to hold the tree at the correct height during planting. The place where the tree was grafted should always remain above the soil surface. At least 10 cm is recommended.
It is also advisable to provide the plant with appropriate support and of course we must not forget to water the tree sufficiently after planting.
Pruning
Crown adjustment can be carried out both before and after planting itself. It is particularly important to shorten the terminal, i.e. extend the trunk axis so that it exceeds the other crown shoots by at least one third. It is advisable to leave typically 4 skeletal shoots in the crown.
At the same time, we should ensure that they are evenly distributed around the terminal shoot. Subsequently, we will shorten the skeletal shoots to 3-5 buds, always to a bud pointing outward from the crown. This will prevent unnecessary thickening of the crown.
Follow-up Care
During the period when the tree is getting used to the new environment, sunlight and soil reaction, this is almost crucial for its survival. Therefore, it is necessary to ensure sufficient and above all appropriate watering for the plant. The first fertilization is then recommended only with the arrival of spring.