Begonia - Garden Decoration

Begonias (lat. Begonia) are plants belonging to the Begoniaceae family. There are many species of begonias, some of which can be grown indoors without any problems (e.g. ornamental-leaved begonias, tuberous begonias, trailing begonias), while others will thrive better in outdoor locations. Begonias are the subject of breeding, so growers can choose from many colour combinations of these magnificent plants. These bred cultivars with large colourful flowers are the most popular among growers. They are mostly representatives of tuberous begonias (lat. Begonia tuberhybrida), which require observance of the growing period and dormant period, when the tubers rest stored in a cool place. Although growing begonias may seem difficult, this is not the case - by following basic instructions, even beginners can grow them.

Large-flowered begonias - ornamental-flowered begonias

Large-flowered begonias are representatives of the ornamental-flowered begonia group. Unlike their ornamental-leaved counterparts, they are grown in outdoor locations. In a hanging planter or pot, you can grow magnificent tuberous begonia hybrids (lat. Begonia tuberhybrida). The leaves of these begonias are heart-shaped, with serrated edges and pointed tips. Individual leaves are approximately 10 - 15 cm long, their colour is green. The flowers are single or double, in various colours from white, through yellow, pink, red... naturally, combinations of these flower colours can also be found. Open flowers can measure 8 - 9 cm in diameter. A trailing species of begonias is Begonia tuberhybrida pendula, which has single or semi-double flowers. Their colour can be very varied thanks to the work of breeders.

Growing Begonias

Proper planting is the foundation of success with tuberous begonias. You need to start preparations very early, ideally at the turn of February and March. Place cleaned tubers to sprout in a dark room with a temperature range of 15 - 20 °C. A sprouting tuber is ready for rooting. Prepare a growing substrate in a planter or pot consisting of 2/3 leaf mould and 1/3 sand. An alternative is regular seed compost purchased from a garden centre. Don't forget to put a drainage layer at the bottom of the container so excess water can drain properly. Level the substrate in the container, create holes about 10 - 15 cm apart, into which you place the sprouted tubers. Carefully cover the tubers so only the sprouts are visible. Water the planted tubers with settled (rain) water. Caution, begonias don't tolerate fresh chlorinated water! Covering the container with glass or growing in a mini greenhouse has proven effective for better moisture retention. The growing substrate must not dry out, but be careful not to overwater. Continue to keep the planted tubers in a dark room with a temperature around 18 - 20 °C. Move the containers with begonias into the light after approximately 14 days. Pre-grown begonias need to be transplanted to their final location (into a larger pot, into a planter) at the turn of April and May. The substrate in the growing container should contain more compost than the original substrate. Individual plants should be planted in the planter at a distance of approximately 20 - 25 cm from each other. Vigorously growing cultivars should be planted in separate pots or at least 30 cm apart. Begonias will also appreciate a little boost in the form of granulated chicken manure placed in the lower part of the substrate.

Growing Begonias During the Growing Season

Place the planted begonia plants in a semi-shaded or shaded location, but preferably bright. Begonias don't tolerate direct scorching sun, but in excessive shade they grow vigorously yet flower poorly. If you don't have a bright and shaded location, you can try shading the begonias with some screen (reed, shade net). Since begonias are very fragile and their flowers are quite heavy, place them in a sheltered location so they won't be broken by wind. Throughout the growing season, it's advisable to fertilise begonias with liquid fertilisers for balcony plants or for geraniums. Another important factor for successful growing is proper watering - there must be neither too little nor too much water. Watering should be done when the substrate surface dries out. Begonias grown in an airy location practically don't suffer from diseases or pests. In poorly ventilated spaces, begonias may be affected by powdery mildew or bacterial rot. Affected leaves must be removed and with more extensive infestation, chemically treated.

Overwintering Begonias

Begonias have an undeniable advantage for growers who struggle annually with overwintering space - they overwinter in the tuber stage and take up little room. Begonias should be lightly fertilized even after flowering, because it is precisely during this time that the tubers grow the most, storing nutrients for winter. Young begonias with small tubers should therefore be protected from frost so their tubers can grow larger, while plants with large tubers can be allowed to experience light frost (approximately down to -2°C) to help them die back. Cut the frozen begonia stems to approximately 3 cm above ground level. Remove the tuber with roots from the soil and allow it to dry, only then shake off excess substrate from the roots. Place healthy and undamaged begonia tubers in a box with dry and light substrate (peat has proven effective). Position the box with begonias in a dark or semi-dark, cool and airy location with normal humidity. The cooler the location, the better. The overwintering site must not freeze! Do not water the stored tubers and check at least once during winter to ensure no disease has developed.