Dill and parsley are herbs without which Czech cuisine cannot be imagined. Dill soup, dill sauce, pickled cucumbers – dill is the fragrance of the Czech summer. Parsley stands at the foundation of every proper broth, soup, and countless sauces. Both herbs belong to the carrot family (Apiaceae), b...

In short: Dill is an annual that must be sown directly – it does not tolerate transplanting – and germinates in 10 to 14 days; sow every 3 to 4 weeks from April to August for a continuous supply. Parsley is a biennial with slow germination, 14 to 30 days; soaking seeds for 24 hours speeds it up.

Germination timeDill 10–14 days, parsley 14–30 days
Sowing depthDill 1–2 cm, parsley 0.5–1 cm
SpacingDill rows 20–30 cm, thin to 15–20 cm; parsley rows 25–30 cm, thin to 10–15 cm
Succession sowing (dill)Every 3–4 weeks from mid-April (soil at least 10 °C) to end of August
Best preservationFreezing; drying in a dehydrator at 35 °C loses aroma (dried dill fades in 3–6 months)
Root parsley harvestOctober–November, before hard frosts

Dill and Parsley – Most Used Czech Herbs

Dill and parsley are herbs without which Czech cuisine cannot be imagined. Dill soup, dill sauce, pickled cucumbers – dill is the fragrance of the Czech summer. Parsley stands at the foundation of every proper broth, soup, and countless sauces. Both herbs belong to the carrot family (Apiaceae), both are easy to grow, and both deserve a place in every vegetable garden or balcony. In this guide you will find everything essential about growing, harvesting, and preserving dill and parsley. Seeds of both herbs can be found in the Dill and Parsley sections on Pestik.cz.


Dill (Anethum graveolens)

Basic Characteristics

Dill is an annual with characteristic feathery foliage, a hollow stem, and yellow umbels. It grows quickly, flowers quickly, and quickly produces seeds – the entire life cycle takes 8–10 weeks. This is why successive (continuous) sowing is the key to success: without it, you will have dill only briefly and an empty bed for the rest of the season.

  • Type: Annual
  • Height: 60–120 cm (with flowering stem)
  • Flowers: Yellow umbels, July–August
  • Scent: Characteristic, anise-like, fresh
  • Germination: 10–14 days

Growing Dill

Direct Sowing – the Only Correct Method

Dill has a taproot and does not tolerate transplanting. Any attempt to prick out seedlings results in plant stress and premature flowering. Always sow directly where it is to grow.

  • Timing: April–August (continuously every 3–4 weeks)
  • Depth: 1–2 cm
  • Distance: Rows 20–30 cm apart, thin to 15–20 cm in the row
  • Soil: Any garden soil, preferably richer and evenly moist
  • Position: Full sun

Successive Sowing – Key to Constant Supply

Dill has a strong tendency to bolt quickly, especially in summer heat. Once flowering begins, leaves toughen and lose much of their flavor. The solution is simple:

  1. First sowing: Mid-April, once soil has warmed to at least 10 °C
  2. Further sowings: Every 3–4 weeks until the end of August
  3. Result: Fresh, young dill is available throughout the season

Watering

  • Regular and even – dill does not tolerate prolonged drought
  • Drought and heat stress significantly accelerate flowering (bolting)
  • Water at the root zone, not on the leaves, to prevent fungal diseases

Fertilizing

  • Minimal – compost worked into the soil before sowing usually suffices
  • On poor soil, add organic slow-release fertilizer before sowing

Bolting Problems

Flowering is a natural part of dill's life cycle – as an annual, it tries to produce seeds as quickly as possible. Bolting is accelerated by:

  • High temperatures (above 28 °C)
  • Drought and irregular watering
  • Transplanting stress
  • Short days (sowing too late)

Prevention: Successive sowing, regular watering, in the worst summer heat sow in partial shade or in a cooler part of the garden.

Dill in Czech Cuisine

Dill is the most Czech herb – its use in Czech gastronomy is so deeply rooted that summer menus simply cannot do without it:

Dish Use
Dill sauce Béchamel with fresh dill, boiled eggs, potatoes
Dill soup (dill soup) Potato soup with sour cream and dill
Cucumber salad Cucumbers, dill, vinegar, sugar, oil
Pickled cucumbers Dill umbels, garlic, and salt in brine
Tartar sauce Fresh chopped dill as the base
Salmon and fish Dill is a classic accompaniment to all fish dishes
Potato salad Fresh dill for freshness and aroma
Cottage cheese spread With dill, chives, and garlic

Harvesting Dill

Leaves (Dill Herb)

  • Harvest continuously – pick individual sprigs from the outside of the plant
  • Young leaves before flowering have the best flavor
  • Harvest in the morning after dew has dried, when the concentration of aromatic compounds is highest
  • After flowering begins, leaves toughen but are still usable – for example, in infusions

Seeds (Dill Seed)

  • Let the umbels ripen on the plant – they turn brown and begin to dry
  • Cut entire umbels, place them head-down in a paper bag
  • Let them dry for 1–2 weeks in a dry place
  • Shake out the seeds and use them for pickling, baking bread, or curry blends

Umbels (Flowering Stem with Flowers)

  • Used whole in pickled cucumbers – traditional Czech method of preservation
  • Harvest when flowers are fully developed and yellow, but before they start falling

Preserving Dill

Method Procedure Flavor Retention
Freezing (recommended) Chop, freeze in a bag laid flat Excellent
Freezing in oil Chop, fill an ice cube tray, cover with oil Excellent
Drying Hanging bundles or dehydrator (35 °C) Weaker (loses aroma)
Salting Layer chopped dill with salt in a jar Good

Tip: Dill loses much of its aromatic compounds through drying – freezing is by far the best preservation method. A bag frozen flat allows you to break off exactly as much as you need.

Medicinal Uses of Dill

  • Digestion: Dill seed eases bloating and cramps – hence the traditional dill water for infants
  • Lactation: Traditionally recommended to breastfeeding mothers to support milk production
  • Urinary tract: Mild diuretic effect
  • Breath: Chewing dill seed naturally freshens breath

Parsley (Petroselinum crispum)

Basic Characteristics

Parsley is a biennial – in the first year it produces leaves (and in the root variety also a root), in the second year it flowers and dies. In practice, most growers grow it as an annual and resow each year.

  • Type: Biennial (grown as an annual)
  • Height: 20–40 cm (leaf variety), 30–50 cm (root variety)
  • Flowers: Yellowish-green umbels (2nd year)
  • Scent: Fresh, herbal, mildly peppery
  • Germination: 14–30 days (very slow!)

Types of Parsley

1. Flat-Leaf Parsley (Italian)

  • Flat, dark green leaves
  • More intense aroma than curly – culinarily preferred variety
  • Typical varieties: Gigante d'Italia, Plain Leaved

2. Curly-Leaf Parsley

  • Curly, lighter green leaves
  • Milder flavor, decorative – classic plate garnish
  • Typical varieties: Moss Curled, Forest Green

3. Root Parsley

  • Grown for white, conical root (similar to parsnip)
  • The basis of Czech broth and soup vegetables
  • Leaves are also edible, but more coarse in flavor than leaf varieties
  • Typical varieties: Hanácká, Olomoucká dlouhá, Berlínská

Growing Parsley

Sowing

Parsley germinates very slowly – 14 to 30 days. This is the reason for most failures: impatient growers resow the bed prematurely and the entire cycle begins again. Simple rule: mark the sowing location, keep it moist, and wait.

Tips for Speeding Up Germination:

  1. Soaking seeds: Soak seeds in lukewarm water for 24 hours before sowing – you will disrupt the germination inhibitors in the seed coat
  2. Temperature: Germinates better at 18–22 °C than in cold soil
  3. Moisture: Keep soil continuously moist – cover rows with non-woven fabric or damp cardboard
  4. Pre-growing: Sow in small pots on a windowsill (March) and transplant out in May – this method shortens the wait for the first harvest
  5. Boiling water (old gardener's trick): Some growers pour boiling water over the row after sowing to disrupt the hard seed coat. The effect is unreliable, but it does not harm the plants.

Direct Sowing

  • Timing: April–June (directly outdoors)
  • Depth: 0.5–1 cm
  • Distance: Rows 25–30 cm apart, thin to 10–15 cm in the row
  • Root parsley: Rows 30 cm apart, 8–10 cm in the row – roots need plenty of space for proper development

Position

  • Sun to partial shade – parsley tolerates partial shade better than most herbs
  • Deep, nutrient-rich, evenly moist soil (especially for root variety)
  • pH 6.0–7.0

Watering

  • Regular – parsley does not tolerate drying out
  • Drought causes yellowing of leaves and premature flowering
  • Mulching around plants significantly helps retain moisture and suppresses weeds

Fertilizing

  • Compost or well-rotted manure worked in before sowing
  • During the season, liquid organic fertilizer approximately once a month
  • For root parsley, avoid fresh manure – it causes forking and root deformation

Parsley as a Biennial

Parsley overwinters and regrows in spring of the second year – it soon bolts, however. Second-year leaves are coarser and more bitter, less suitable for culinary use.

Practical tip: Sow parsley every year. In the first year, harvest leaves or roots. In the second year, leave a few plants to flower and produce seeds – parsley often self-seeds in the garden and you will save yourself next year's sowing.

Harvesting Parsley

Leaf Parsley

  • Harvest outer leaves from the base – leave the inner part to continue growing
  • Pick leaves continuously from June through autumn
  • Harvest fresh leaves in the morning for the best flavor and aroma

Root Parsley

  • Harvest in autumn (October–November) before hard frosts
  • Dig out roots with a fork – pulling by the top breaks them
  • Store in sand in a cellar or in the refrigerator, where they will keep for several weeks
  • Alternatively: leave in the ground through winter and harvest gradually as needed (survives mild winters without problems)

Preserving Parsley

Method Procedure Flavor Retention
Freezing (recommended) Chop, freeze in a bag laid flat Excellent (color and flavor)
Freezing in ice cubes Chop, cover with water in an ice cube tray Excellent
Drying Dehydrator (35 °C) or hanging bundles Good (loses color)
In oil Chop, cover with olive oil in a jar Good

Tip: Parsley retains its color and flavor through freezing much better than drying. Freeze flat in a bag and break off exactly as much as you need.

Parsley in Czech Cuisine

Dish Use
Broth / soup vegetables Root parsley + carrot + celery + parsley herb
Sauces Fresh chopped, added at the end of cooking
Potato salad Fresh chopped parsley for color and freshness
Tabbouleh Main ingredient (flat-leaf)
Chimichurri Parsley + garlic + oil + vinegar
Gremolata Parsley + lemon zest + garlic (for osso buco)
Spreads With cottage cheese, garlic, and dill
Eggs On scrambled eggs, omelets

Tip: Add parsley at the end of cooking – longer heating destroys both flavor and color.

Medicinal Uses of Parsley

  • Vitamins: Rich in vitamin C (up to 130 mg/100 g – more than an orange), vitamin A, vitamin K, and folate
  • Iron: High iron content – suitable as a supplement for anemia
  • Diuretic effects: Supports water excretion from the body – traditionally used for swelling
  • Digestion: Stimulates digestive processes and eases bloating
  • Breath: Chewing fresh parsley naturally freshens breath and neutralizes garlic odor

Caution: Pregnant women should not consume parsley in large amounts – it contains apiol, which in excessive doses stimulates the uterus.


Companion Planting – Dill and Parsley in the Garden

Dill

  • Attracts: Lacewings, hoverflies, small parasitic wasps – beneficial predators of aphids and other pests
  • Good companions: Cucumbers (classic combination at table too), cabbage, lettuce, onions
  • Poor companions: Carrots (relatives – can cross and confuse pests), tomatoes (dill in later growth phase may inhibit their development), fennel (mutual crossing and allelopathic effects)

Parsley

  • Attracts: Hoverflies (predators of aphids) – second-year flowers are very attractive to beneficial insects
  • Good companions: Tomatoes (parsley repels some of their pests), roses, asparagus, corn
  • Poor companions: Lettuce (root competition), carrots (relatives, mutual influence)

Comparison of Dill and Parsley

Property Dill Parsley
Type Annual Biennial
Sowing Direct (no transplanting!) Direct or pre-growing
Germination 10–14 days 14–30 days (slow!)
Position Full sun Sun to partial shade
Watering Regular Regular
Bolting Quick (sow successively) 2nd year
Preservation Freezing (drying unsuitable) Freezing (retains color)
Czech cuisine Dill sauce, cucumbers Broth, sauces, salads
Companion With cucumbers, cabbage With tomatoes, roses

Seasonal Calendar

Month Dill Parsley
March – Pre-growing on windowsill
April 1st sowing outdoors Sow outdoors (soak seeds!)
May 2nd sowing, 1st harvest Germinating – patience!
June 3rd sowing, harvest Beginning of leaf harvest
July 4th sowing, harvest, drying umbels Continuous harvest
August Last sowing, harvest seeds Continuous harvest
September Harvest, preservation Harvest, root variety: preparation for digging
October End of season Root harvest (root variety)
November – Overwinters as biennial

Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)

Why does my dill flower immediately?

Dill flowers as a reaction to stress – primarily heat, drought, and long days. The solution is successive sowing every 3–4 weeks and regular watering. In the worst summer heat, try sowing in partial shade or choosing a position with afternoon shading.

Why does parsley take so long to germinate?

Parsley seeds have a hard coat containing germination inhibitors (furanocoumarins). Soaking in lukewarm water for 24 hours before sowing significantly speeds up this process. Keep soil continuously moist and be patient – 3–4 weeks is completely normal.

Is flat-leaf or curly-leaf parsley better?

For cooking, flat-leaf – it has more intense flavor and aroma. For plate decoration: curly-leaf (holds its shape better). For broth and soup vegetables: root parsley (root and herb). Ideally, have all three types available.

Can I grow dill and parsley in a planter?

Yes, both herbs do well in containers. Dill needs a deeper planter (at least 20 cm – because of its taproot). Parsley grows excellently in a planter – at least 15 cm deep for leaf varieties, 25 cm or more for root variety. Both require more careful and regular watering in containers than in a garden bed.

How long does dried dill last?

Dried dill loses aroma within 3–6 months – it is among the herbs that preserve worst through drying. Frozen dill, on the other hand, retains its flavor for up to a year. Dill seed (dried) lasts 2–3 years when stored properly.


Sources

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