Wilma systems – active drip system for advanced growers

Passive systems like Autopot are great for beginners – simple, maintenance-free, reliable. But there comes a moment when you start hitting their limits. You want more precise control over watering, faster vegetative growth, or the ability to grow in pure hydroton without any organic substrate. This is exactly where Wilma comes in – an active drip system from British brand Nutriculture, which combines operational simplicity with the performance of professional hydroponics.

What is Wilma and how it differs from Autopot

Wilma is an active hydroponic system based on the drip irrigation principle. While Autopot relies exclusively on gravity and the passive suction power of the substrate, Wilma uses a submersible pump controlled by a timer, which transports nutrient solution directly to the root zone of each plant at regular intervals.

The solution travels from the reservoir located below the pots through the pump into drip rings (drip rings) distributed around plant stems. Excess solution passes through the substrate, drains through the tray back to the reservoir, and the entire cycle repeats. It's a closed recirculating system – the solution isn't wasted but reused repeatedly.

The key difference from Autopot lies in the degree of control: you determine when, how often, and for how long plants receive nutrients. This is both an advantage and a responsibility that requires at least basic knowledge of plant needs in individual growing stages.

How Wilma Works

The system consists of three basic components that together form a functional unit.

1. Solution Reservoir

The lower part of the system is a reservoir where nutrient solution is mixed. The volume varies by model – from 30 liters in the smallest version to 180 liters in XL systems. A submersible pump is located at the bottom of the reservoir.

2. Upper Tray with Pots

Above the reservoir is a tray where individual pots stand. The tray has a slight slope toward the drain opening, so excess solution gravitates back to the reservoir without any grower intervention.

3. Pump, Tubing, and Drip Rings

The pump is connected to a distribution hose, from which thinner branches lead to each pot. At the end of each branch is a drip ring that evenly distributes the solution across the substrate surface around the plant stem.

How the Watering Cycle Works

1. Timer activates the pump (typically 3 to 6 times daily for 15 minutes)
2. Pump pushes solution from reservoir through tubing to drip rings
3. Solution slowly penetrates the substrate and supplies the root zone with nutrients
4. Excess solution drains through the pot bottom via the tilted tray back to the reservoir
5. Timer turns off the pump; substrate gradually dries and roots extract oxygen from air pockets

You adjust the frequency and duration of watering cycles on the timer according to plant needs, growth stage, and chosen substrate. Hydroton retains less water than coco, so water plants in it more frequently – generally 4 to 6 cycles daily. In coco substrate, 2 to 4 cycles suffice.

Wilma Models

Wilma systems are manufactured in several size ranges. The designation is based on the number of pots and size category (Small, Large, XL, XXL).

Wilma Small (4 pots)

The smallest model in the range. Four pots of 6 or 11 liters sit on a 60 x 60 cm tray with a 30-liter reservoir. Wilma Small is compact – it fits in an 80 x 80 cm grow box or larger and represents an ideal entry point into active hydroponics for growers transitioning from passive systems.

Wilma Large (4 or 8 pots)

Wilma Large offers more space and capacity. The 4-pot version has a 75 x 75 cm tray and a 50-liter reservoir, using 11 or 18-liter pots. The 8-pot version (Large Wide) measures approximately 115 x 60 cm and works with 50 to 120-liter reservoirs depending on configuration. This setup suits growers wanting to increase yield without moving to a significantly larger system.

Wilma XL (4 or 8 pots)

XL versions bring even larger pots (18 or 25 liters) and reservoirs of 70 to 180 liters. Tray sizes start at 90 x 90 cm. Wilma XL is designed for large plants with robust root systems needing stable and abundant nutrient supply throughout vegetation and flowering.

Wilma XXL (16 or 20 pots)

The largest models on offer. Wilma XXL with 20 pots of 11 liters and a 150-liter reservoir is a solution for growers wanting to maximize the number of plants in a given space. These setups suit larger grow rooms or greenhouses where unified central watering control is desirable.

Flo-Gro and Other Nutriculture Systems

Besides the Wilma range, Nutriculture offers other hydroponic systems complementing the portfolio with alternative growing approaches.

Flo-Gro

Flo-Gro is a single-pot drip system designed for solo growing of one plant. It works on the same principle as Wilma – a drip ring supplies solution to the substrate, solution passes through hydroton, becomes oxygenated, and drains back to a reservoir of approximately 16 to 17 liters. Flo-Gro is popular with growers wanting to give maximum attention to a single plant and maximize its yield. It also works as an addition to a larger system – if you have one specific plant requiring individual care and its own watering schedule.

Oxypot (DWC from Nutriculture)

For completeness, it's worth noting that Nutriculture manufactures Deep Water Culture systems under the name Oxypot. In these systems, roots hang directly in aerated nutrient solution without any substrate. DWC is the most aggressive form of hydroponics with potentially the fastest growth but also the highest demands for continuous monitoring of pH, EC, and solution temperature. It's not a system for growers who can't afford regular monitoring.

Wilma vs Autopot vs DWC Comparison

When to Choose Wilma

Wilma is the right choice when you need:
- Precise control over watering cycle frequency and duration
- Growing in pure hydroton without organic substrate
- Maximizing yield without the extreme demands of DWC
- Scaling the system to more plants with unified central control

When to Stick with Autopot

Autopot makes more sense in situations where:
- Your grow space lacks an available electrical outlet
- You're looking for a "set it and forget it" system with minimal intervention
- Low operational demands and resilience to human error are priorities
- You travel frequently for extended periods and need absolute reliability without supervision

Setup Guide: Building Wilma System Step by Step

What You'll Need

• Wilma system (reservoir, tray, pots, pump, tubing, drip rings)
• Timer (mechanical or digital with short interval settings)
• Substrate (hydroton for pure hydroponics, coco for semi-hydroponics)
• Hydroponic fertilizer suitable for recirculating systems
• pH meter and EC meter (essential, not optional equipment)
• pH regulator (pH down, optionally pH up)

Assembly Steps

1. Assemble reservoir and tray. Place the reservoir on a firm level surface. Set the tray on it so the drain opening aligns exactly with the reservoir opening. Check the stability of the entire assembly – the tray with full pots is quite heavy.

2. Install the pump. Place the submersible pump at the bottom of the reservoir. Connect the main supply and thread the hose through the tray opening up to working height.

3. Branch the tubing. From the main hose, distribute thinner branches to each pot using a splitter. Ensure individual branch lengths are as equal as possible – this ensures even pressure and identical flow to all plants. Attach a drip ring to the end of each branch.

4. Prepare pots and substrate. If using hydroton, rinse it thoroughly under running water to remove dust and any debris. Fill the pots, position plants, and place drip rings around the stem on the substrate surface. The ring should distribute solution evenly across the entire pot diameter.

5. Mix nutrient solution. Fill the reservoir with water, add fertilizer according to manufacturer recommendations, and adjust pH to 5.5 to 6.5 (ideally 5.8 for most crops). Measure EC – typically 1.0 to 1.4 mS/cm in vegetation, 1.6 to 2.2 mS/cm in flowering depending on plant demands.

6. Set the timer. As a starting point, use 4 to 6 cycles daily for 15 minutes in hydroton, 2 to 4 cycles daily for 15 minutes in coco. Fine-tune exact settings based on observation – monitor substrate moisture between cycles and temperature in the grow space. In hot environments (above 26 °C), plants transpire more and need shorter intervals between watering.

7. Start the system and perform checks. Activate the timer and observe the entire first watering cycle from start to finish. Verify that all drip rings function properly and solution evenly moistens substrate in all containers. Check that drainage from the tray flows smoothly back to the reservoir without leaks.

Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)

Can I grow in soil with Wilma?
Technically, Wilma is compatible with coco, hydroton, and light soil substrates. In regular garden soil, however, the system functions more as an automatic waterer than a true hydroponic system – soil can clog drain openings and impair recirculation. For full utilization of active hydroponics benefits, choose hydroton or coco.

How loud is the pump?
The submersible pump in Wilma is comparable in noise to a small aquarium pump. In a quiet room it's audible during operation but in regular home or grow box environments with ventilation it blends with background noise. If pump noise bothers you during sleep, consider placing the system outside the bedroom or get a digital timer that doesn't run the pump during night hours.

What happens during a power outage?
Plants survive without watering for several hours provided the substrate was properly saturated during the last cycle. In hydroton this reserve is shorter – approximately 2 to 4 hours; in coco 6 to 12 hours. If frequent outages are likely, consider getting a backup power source (UPS) at least for the pump.

How often should I change the solution in the reservoir?
Perform a complete change every 7 to 10 days. Between changes, regularly top up with fresh water (plants consume water faster than nutrients) and correct pH and EC. Never add concentrated solution directly to an already-aged reservoir – dangerous nutrient imbalance risks damaging roots.

Is Wilma better than DWC?
It depends on your priorities and experience. DWC offers potentially faster growth due to direct root contact with aerated solution, but requires continuous aeration, precise temperature control of solution (ideally 18 to 20 °C), and is prone to rapid spread of root pathogens. Wilma is more tolerant of minor errors, easier to scale to multiple plants, and offers better performance-to-complexity ratio for most growers.

Can I combine Wilma with Autopot?
They're physically separate systems that don't share components or reservoirs. Both systems can operate side by side in the same grow space without problems. Some growers use Autopot for less demanding or hardy varieties and reserve Wilma for plants they expect maximum performance from.

Conclusion

Wilma is a logical next step for any grower who's outgrown passive systems and seeks greater control over the growing process. Drip irrigation with closed recirculation is a proven method with excellent performance-to-complexity ratio. Wilma isn't as simple as Autopot and not as demanding as DWC – it's a thoughtful middle ground of active hydroponics equally applicable in a compact grow box or a larger grow room.