Growing Bonsai - Tips for Beginners

Do you dream of growing bonsai but don't know where to start? We'll guide you on how to choose the right species, how to care for your bonsai, and how to shape it. Growing these miniature trees isn't complicated when you know how.

Do you dream of growing bonsai but don't know where to start? We'll show you how to choose the right species, how to care for bonsai and how to shape them. Growing these miniature trees is not difficult if you know how.

History and Origin

This art of growing miniature trees in a pot originates from ancient China, with a history dating back 2,000 years. Later, bonsai spread to Japan and subsequently to the entire world.

Species Selection

🌳 For outdoor growing, which is easier by the way, it's best to choose a deciduous species at first, such as linden, hornbeam or fruit trees, which will additionally offer you a wonderful sight in summer in the form of small fruits. Lilacs, fuchsias or azaleas will also be a guaranteed decoration for your garden.

🌳 With indoor bonsai, you can go for any woody species of potted plants. The most common indoor bonsai are citrus trees, small-leaved ficus or Chinese elms, which will be year-round decorations thanks to their evergreen nature.

If you thought that bonsai only grow to a few centimeters, you're mistaken – bonsai can reach up to two meters. If you're planning to have a larger bonsai, you can buy an already mature tree or a pre-shaped plant.

You can also grow bonsai from seed, but it requires patience and plenty of time. The advantage, however, is that you have the plants in your own hands from the beginning, and the result is definitely worth it.

Bonsai Sizes

Large: 60 to 120 cm
Medium: 30 to 60 cm
Small: 15 to 30 cm
- Miniature: 5 to 15 cm
- Baby bonsai: 7.5 to 15 cm

Bonsai Care

Location

If you want to grow an indoor bonsai, choose an east or west-facing window. If you've chosen an outdoor bonsai, it's best to select a bright location, but avoid direct midday sun. In winter, outdoor bonsai should be protected from wind, rain and snow.

💡 TIP: The most common mistake is overwatering or letting the substrate dry out.

Substrate

When you buy a bonsai from a shop that isn't specialized in bonsai, it's best to repot it immediately. If you bring the plant in from outdoors, it's better to let it gradually adjust to the pot. Thick roots need to be shortened, and you should choose an ordinary pot that's appropriate for the plant's size.

For growing bonsai, choose a substrate designed specifically for them. It's sufficiently permeable, doesn't retain moisture and is therefore suitable for developing new roots. These substrates also contain fertilizer that nourishes the plant for up to six months.

💡 TIP: Shallow dishes are suitable for upward-growing bonsai, while deeper ones are better for creating cascades. They should always have large drainage holes.

Watering and Fertilizing

Since these plants are grown particularly in shallow dishes, regular watering is necessary and should be done at least once a day. It's best to use rainwater or settled water for watering.

Fertilizing must begin no later than six months after planting, as the fertilizer in the substrate is already depleted by this time. Fertilize once every 1 to 2 weeks from spring to mid-autumn, using either bonsai fertilizer or ordinary fertilizer.

Deciduous overwintered species should be watered very little during winter, while evergreen indoor species should be watered to prevent the substrate from drying out and fertilized once every 2 to 4 weeks.

Bonsai Forms

Japanese design forms of bonsai include:

Chokkan - this bonsai has a conical shape and a straight vertical trunk that is evenly covered with branches

Moyogi - is asymmetrical and its trunk has a maximum of three curves, it is also evenly covered with branches

Shakan - its root system is reversed compared to the base of the trunk, it has a slanted trunk and a strong root system

Fukinagasi - the trunk of this form is bent, with branches growing towards the side of the slope

Hokidachi - has a straight trunk with fan-shaped growing branches

Kengai - its trunk and branches are hanging over the edge of the pot

Han-kengai - horizontal trunk with a semi-cascade or cascade-like appearance

Ishitsuki - its roots grow around trunks in the ground, it is a rock bonsai

Sokan - two trunks grow from one root system

Sankan - three trunks grow from one root system

Kabudachi - this bonsai has several trunks of different thickness, which always grow in odd numbers, its shape resembles a shrub

Yose-ue - called a forest composition, several trees of different ages and sizes grow in the container

Ikadabuky - this bonsai resembles a forest composition of several trees whose trunks are on or in the soil, branches grow upwards

Shaping Bonsai

Shaping bonsai

The trees are shaped mainly using wires and scissors, if you already have a clear idea of how the bonsai should look, you can get started. Remove shoots that are too long or excessive and treat the wound with grafting wax.

For shaping, we recommend purchasing wires specifically designed for bonsai, as they are gentle on the bark of the plants and help you achieve the desired shape. You will need wires of various thicknesses for shaping, depending on individual branches, always start from the bottom and from the strongest branches to the weakest. The wire, which must always be anchored on strong branches, is wound onto the branches at an angle of approximately 45°.

Once you have wired the entire tree, start again from the bottom, this time shaping it into the desired appearance. Buds should point outward from the center and branches should not overlap. If you want to bend a branch more, first gently move it in all directions.

💡 TIP: The wires must remain on the bonsai until the tree stays in the desired position after their removal. This can take several months, or even a year.

🛒 Recommended Products to Buy (suitable for growing as bonsai):

Lemon Bottlebrush - Callistemon citrinus
Bael Fruit Tree - Aegle marmelos
Common Myrtle - Myrtus communis